{"id":6186,"date":"2013-08-23T14:52:14","date_gmt":"2013-08-23T14:52:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.thesojournseries.com\/bavaria\/?p=6186"},"modified":"2014-05-13T10:36:51","modified_gmt":"2014-05-13T10:36:51","slug":"of-golden-temples-unicorns-and-other-mythical-creatures-kyoto-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.thesojournseries.com\/bavaria\/of-golden-temples-unicorns-and-other-mythical-creatures-kyoto-part-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Of Golden Temples, Unicorns and other Mythical Creatures – Kyoto Part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"

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There seemed to be no end to Kyoto’s charm offensive. \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 We spent the following morning exploring the vast grounds of Kinkakuji<\/a> –\u00a0 the Golden Pavilion (thus called for obvious reasons), and apparently adored so much by one monk that he burned the original down – which does of course mean that this iconic building isn’t as old as it might seem.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 As lovely as it was, I think my preferred Kyoto temple was actually Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion – except it’s not) for its incredible gardens of the zen, moss and tiered variety.\u00a0 From the tiny croaking frogs perched at the edge of ancient pools oblivious to us passing, to the glossy ravens that outpaced us slightly in the branches of the cedars overhead.\u00a0 It all had quite an ethereal ambience.\u00a0 So much so I was half expecting to turn a corner and find a unicorn, but sadly it was not to be…\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 The slightly surreal and dreamy feel to the afternoon was at risk of being completely destroyed shortly afterwards however when we got horribly lost, but thankfully we made it back to the Kabuki Theatre in time.\u00a0 Small Girl and I had an appointment to keep…<\/p>\n

Eager to continue our quest to find out more about Kyoto’s famous residents, I had emailed Peter Mackintosh<\/a> a few days beforehand. \u00a0 This lovely Canadian bear of a man has lived in Kyoto for almost 20 years, and is the font of all knowledge on the history and rituals of the Geisha way of life.\u00a0\u00a0 Not only does he seem to know every single person in the entire city, but he’s something of an ace photographer too, and both Small Girl and I learned some good photography tips along the way.<\/p>\n

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I loved that we learned about stuff that we would have walked straight past had Peter not pointed it out, such as the Maiko’s school timetables – packed full of music and dance lessons, and the tiny wooden orange Torii <\/a>symbols hung strategically to ward off peeing dogs…\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 It wasn’t too long before he noticed a few locals hanging about paparazzi style outside an okiya<\/a>, a sure sign apparently that a Geisha was about to leave for an appointment.\u00a0 And sure enough, a few minutes later an ornate creature appeared in all her finery. \u00a0 The whole ensemble costs thousands of pounds, and must weigh a ton, but it looks amazing. \u00a0 I thought The Small Girl’s eyes might pop out of her head, much to the Geisha’s amusement.\u00a0 I got Peter to ask whether she minded if I took I picture or two, and she nodded her approval – but as I didn’t want to feel like I was hounding her, I only took a couple.<\/p>\n

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We went on to spot a few more all on their way to get ready for the evening, but no others in costume and make up –\u00a0 at the time a little disappointing to the Eight Year old, but we did go on to learn a lot more about Kyoto and its heritage.\u00a0 I suggest that you drop Peter a line should you be visiting the area –\u00a0 he’s a busy guy though I warn you now, but it’s worth asking him isn’t it?!<\/p>\n

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Heads full of facts, we met the boys for dinner.\u00a0 And afterwards tired from a day of walking, we got a cab back to the hotel.\u00a0 I definitely think Sod’s Law had a part to play in what happened next, as it soon became apparent that our hotel appeared to be hosting some sort of Geisha convention, there were dozens of them!!\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0 Anyway, it made for a memorable day, and the Eight Year old is now torn between a career choice of Vet or Geisha when she’s older.<\/p>\n

I won’t just remember Kyoto for that either.\u00a0\u00a0 Tempted by the beautifully drawn map in our hotel room, we turfed everyone out of bed just after sunrise the next day for a visit to the Imperial Palace Gardens, before it was time to bid this beautiful city farewell…\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 The advantage of this was not only to evade the oppressive energy sapping heat, but the tranquility of it, and apart from a few tai chi devotees and the odd dog walker, we had this serene and beautiful place to ourselves.<\/p>\n

Following the line of the shallow (and empty) moat was great fun for Small boy who was busy talking about dragons and imperial warriors.\u00a0 Obviously at a good bit in his story, he wobbled a bit, lost his balance and for the briefest of seconds touched the palace wall.\u00a0\u00a0 And then the alarm started.\u00a0 The loudest alarm I think I might have ever heard.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Clouds of birds flew into the air,\u00a0 and any and all peace was utterly demolished.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 It turns out that at the end of the “moat” there’s a tiny black box containing a laser, and if you cross that laser…\u00a0\u00a0 If you were in Kyoto that morning and you were trying to have a lie in, then I sincerely apologise…<\/p>\n

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Next stop Fuji…\u00a0\u00a0 (we are nearing the end of the trip, honest!)<\/p>\n

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