A mere one hour’s drive from Vienna lies Bratislava, capital of Slovakia, and the only capital city in the entire world to border two countries – Austria and Hungary.
We had a stop over there last week on our way to Budapest for the weekend (one thing I love about Bavaria is the amount of Bank holidays!!). Whilst this stop was initially to break up the journey, it was great to find out what this “Little Big City” has to offer at the same time, and we all loved it – it’s compact, clean and relaxed. Plus some of the architecture is stunning too (as you might imagine of somewhere with such a varied history). Wander down most leafy streets here and there are more than a few examples of faded (and not so faded) glory…
Relaxed locals
Rightly proud of their city, the people are polite and welcoming. Happy that you have taken the time to come and explore, many are happy to chat, practice their English (when this fails German works sometimes) and advise you on what to see, where to eat, and what not to miss…
We started with the park behind the Presidential Palace, seconds from our hotel. This green lung is where locals come to relax, and seek shade on days as hot as we experienced there. From there we ventured through Saint Michael’s Gate, and down into the heart of the old city… Based around one main square, there are a few touristy shops on the perimeter as you might imagine but a couple of the vast traditional cafes are worth a coffee at least, to see the original interiors alone…
Keep an eye out for the street art on show here too, there’s some in the main square near the pretty Jesuit Church, and you can’t miss the man half out of an imaginary man hole just around the corner from here (beware the ice-cream shop close to this statue who charges a lot for a gnome sized amount of ice-cream)…
Then on to St.Elizabeth’s, Bratislava’s famous Blue Church. It almost matched the colour of the sky that day, and whilst the Small People inspected all the outside details (and decided it looked like a cake), I took plenty of pictures of both that, and the former (now derelict) hospital opposite, with its impressive communist worker statues guarding the doorways.
Fortune found us a leafy nearby beer garden to cool off in (bizarrely teeming with thousands of baby ladybirds, and with the bonus of a teeny playground for the small people), and we took some time out to enjoy some ice-cold drinks and the delicious cooking smells wafting across the tables. Appetites whetted, we decided to see a little more of the city before dinner, and headed for a walk along the waterfront before making our way back into town. Whilst walking, we all commented several times what a laid back and relaxed vibe this place has…
Once back in the centre, we decided on a restaurant pretty much straight away (very unlike us), lured by the pretty (and very busy) tables in the courtyard (always a good sign!) Pod Kammenym Stromom specialises in grilled meat, fish and salads. We soon got chatting to the owner who gave up an advertising career to open up his life’s ambition, and this is his passion. He recommended the catfish for us, and steak for the small people, all of which came with a leafy fresh salad and new potatoes (the menu is limited to just a few dishes as they are passionate about good food and freshness). It was excellent, and pretty reasonable too coming in at around Fifty Euros for the four of us…
Happily stuffed, we wandered back in fading daylight to our hotel. The Loft is in a great position for exploring Bratislava, close to everything (including the main station), it also boasts a decent restaurant and an in-house brewery, which is apparently a result according to Mr R. Rooms are spacious and well equipped, and communal areas are stylish and modern. The Small People were both happy about not having to share a bed (too many hotels palm off an unfolded sofa bed to share as a “family room” option nowadays!) and we were happy about not having to listen to any arguing about it…
All in all, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Bratislava. This “Little Big City” has a big heart, and more than enough to keep you busy with centrally for a day or two. And when you think you have exhausted everything, then the surrounding countryside has plenty on offer too…
What to see: The Old City, Hrad Castle (which we will get to next time), the Blue Church.
Where to stay: Loft Hotel Bratislava, Štefánikova 4, 811 05 Bratislava, Tel.: + 421 2 5751 1000
Where to eat: Pod Kamennym Stromom, Sedlarska ulica 10, Bratislava 81101. And afterwards brave the long queue for Koun, the best handmade ice cream in Bratislava (closes at 8pm though – be warned !)…
More pictures to follow shortly…
Emma says
Bratislava looks fantastic Emma, I love that you get to travel so much, you make me want to spend a Summer backpacking around Europe with the kids. :-)
Emma says
Thank you! We have a weekend at home next weekend, and I can’t actually wait! :D xx
A Patchwork Life says
I had no idea it was so close to Vienna! Never been great at geography… Sounds like a really interesting place to visit, and more fabulous photos x
Emma says
Don’t worry, neither did I until we moved here… Thanks so much T! (: x
Mammasaurus says
That looks like just my sort of place Emma – can’t wait to see more photos x
Emma says
Thanks Annie! (: x
Cass@frugalfamily says
What a lovely place to visit – I’d go just to say hello to those cute little dogs x
Emma says
Gorgeous aren’t they? Thanks Cass! (: x
Otilia says
Bratislava is another place I never visited but I wish I could visit in the near future. Thank you for reminding me. Will be pinning x
Emma says
Thank you Otilia x
Nikki Thomas says
I do love your photos, you always manage to take such interesting shots. I love the man in the manhole, that is so clever. It sounds really interesting and looks very colourful.
Emma says
You are too kind Nikki, thank you! (:
Emma says
I love churches in other countries they always look so beautiful.
Emma says
I love colourful buildings like this, and it’s great to see a church in a bright colour in Europe! (: Thanks Emma
Katy Hill says
Oh my goodness – St Elizabeth’s could quite possibly be my favourite church EVER! How stunning is that?! Bratislava hasn’t really ever occurred to me as a destination but it looks gorgeous! Definitely added to my “must see” list! x
Emma says
Perfect for a weekend Katy! Thanks so much! :) x
Ginger says
I absolutely love your photographs of cities – does the sun always come out and light the buildings the moment you arrive? It makes me want to pack my bags RIGHT NOW and visit Slovakia! Or wherever you are now, actually.
Emma says
Thanks so much for such a lovely comment! And not always, I absolutely promise! :D http://www.thesojournseries.com/bavaria/pictures-mornings-walk-venice-rain/