Before I start, I should mention that once upon a time, Mr R lived in Tokyo. Not for too long, but long enough to learn a decent amount of Japanese. This definitely made our experience here a whole lot easier. Don’t let that put you off, I am not saying that anything we encountered would be problematic for non-speakers, it might just take slightly longer and involve a lot more sign language!
Anyway, after a smooth and seamless flight (accompanied by what seemed to be the entire Royal Ballet Troupe about to commence on a tour of Tokyo – I caught a fair few of them doing stretches and pliés in the queue for the loo!), we landed at Narita airport bright and early in the morning. We took the train straight into the city and caught the first glimpse of the different planet that is Tokyo…
Our first hotel, The Sheraton Miyako in Meguro provided an oasis of calm after trips into certain parts of Tokyo (where it was so busy it was hard to make out an individual person from the rapidly moving swarm at times). Our room overlooked a beautiful leafy Japanese Garden and was spacious and comfortable. On arrival, the two small members of the family seemed devoid of jet lag symptoms and set about pressing all the buttons on the various gadgets in the room. One of them managed to switch on the TV, and bizarrely enough tuned into a Japanese food programme on the Viktualientmarkt in Munich….
A quick rest later, we set out to explore some of Mr R’s old stomping grounds…First stop Shinjuku, where animal mad Small Girl made a beeline straight for Hachiko, the statue of a loyal hound who would turn up at the station to meet his owner from work – and carried on doing so for 11 years after his death.
Then it was on to the vast impressive underground food court in Mark City. Such places provided many a free sample “meal” for Mr R and his colleagues once upon a time, and could be the answer as to why there are not that many free tasters to be had nowadays (much to his dismay!)… The array of food on display here though was incredible, and mouth-watering…
Then, just as it was beginning to get dark, we headed to the bright lights of Shibuya, an area particularly popular with Tokyo’s youth, and primarily known for its vibrant shops, restaurants and bustling nightlife. A little hungry after the food court visit – but not wanting to scare the Small people with more complex Japanese food, we let them choose dinner. And that’s how we ended up at the small but perfectly formed (and incredibly good) Sushi Go Round. Amused by the two little English children with their love of ikura, one sushi chef gave them his undivided attention for the hour or so that we were there, and in between them grabbing things off the conveyor belt, he would pass them tiny plates he had made especially (without wasabi!)… Forget any myths that Japan is still overly expensive, this particular meal including drinks cost £22.
The next day we headed to Asakusa, first stop Sensō-ji Temple. This beautiful Buddhist temple (the oldest in Tokyo) is popular with both locals and tourists alike. It’s a special way to spend half an hour or so, whilst observing the various prayer rituals, choking on incense, and indulging in a little fortune-telling by way of O-mikuji. In return for a donation, your future is predicted by shaking a hexagonal box until a stick appears, and then matching the symbol on it to one on hundreds of tiny drawers. In the event that you pick favourably, you fold your slip of lucky paper and tie it to a nearby wire for extra luck. If it’s bad, you have to tie it to a pine tree apparently, but ours depicted that we would have good fortune in the Spring! Here’s hoping!
Preparations for the Tanabata Festival were underway whilst we were there, and as it a breezy day, the decorations provided a colourful display as we walked towards lunch, this time for slightly more adventurous fayre, in a very good izakaya with fish tanks in the window. I noticed Small Girl had been unusually quiet throughout the meal, the explanation for which was that she had been worried that this was about to fall on her head, which is understandable I suppose!
The afternoon was spent in the tiny but surreal Hanayashiki fun fair, which claims to be the oldest in Japan. After riding about on free range giant panda robots (chased after by both parents, slightly worried about them mowing people down), exploring the “Surprising House” and testing such rides as the Sky Tree, they both typically claimed that the very best thing about this place was the more down to earth crayfish fishing – crab fishing Tokyo style! These tiny aggressive creatures can’t help themselves when it comes to the sparkling metal lure attached to the tiny fishing rods, and sit their waving their pincers about until the temptation becomes so great that they suddenly find themselves hauled out into a waiting bucket. Once the fisher person has caught five in an alloted time, they are rewarded with a packet of sweet cigarettes (remember them?). I think both children would be quite content to still be sitting there now. Actually so would I.
Our first few days in Japan had been a resounding success…
I have been through Narita many times en route to and from Seoul, but we still haven’t visited Tokyo properly. It reminds me so much of Seoul in many ways!!
And then I know that I will like Seoul too… :) Hope you get the time to visit Tokyo properly one day! Thank you xx
What Older Mum in a Muddle said. (Both comments, actually. But particularly the first one!!) Just loved all this series of Japanese posts but haven’t had time to comment before now as have been dipping in and reading via my phone whilst away. Just brilliant words and photos. That is all. :D
Thank you sooo much! I am so pleased people have enjoyed reading them. There are more to come! :D It’s taking ages to get them all down! xx
How I would love to make it to Japan one day. Your photos really give a great feel for the place. And sweet cigarettes! I remember those!
Thanks so much Annie! I am worried people are getting bored with them, but I am determined to get them all down for family prosperity! :D
So lovely to feel part of your adventures reading this. So much I could comment on so I will plump for the statue of the little dog – the story reminded me of Greyfriars Bobby and the similar statue in Edinburgh.
Sweet. And now I have learned something too! Thanks Trish! :) x
LOVE the pictures, LOVE the words, and LOVE Small Girl’s dress! What a full-on dunk into a different culture for the kids :)
Thanks so much Pia! :) x PS. Dress is from good old John Lewis! xx
so enjoyed catching up with your Japan posts, sounds amazing! And such a fantastic experience for the kids. Love your description of the slightly off the wall fun fair, think that would be right up my street :) Totally agree with OM – you are a wonderful travel writer! Look forward to part 2 xx
Thanks so much! Enjoy your break! :) xx
Ps…. I will always have an enduring image of ballerinas stretching at 35 thousand feet!
The 8 year old thought they were all AMAZING! :D
You are the most fantastic travel writer – you really are – I am there with you when you write these posts. And your photos are wonderful as ever! Have you thought about writing for travel magazines, or a travel section in a magazine? X.
That’s such a lovely comment. Would LOVE to write for a travel mag. One day maybe! :) Thank you, I really appreciate it! :) xx
So envious – it sounds like you had the most incredible time. Looking forward to the next instalment – can’t wait to see some pictures of the food ;)
There are plenty of those to come! Thank you! :) x
Looks great! Loved the photos, and it looked like you were having so much fun! Really made me want to go myself :)
It was great, thank you Orli! :)
fantastic photographs, a proper travel experience for children, am jealous!
Thank you, it was our first “real” travel experience since we had the small people! :) x
Fascinating! I have never been to Japan but who knows… Useful that your hubby can speak some Japanese! xx
So useful. Was very funny though, took him a few days to stop speaking Japanese when we got back to Germany, most confusing! :) xx
Fantastic post
Glad you liked it! :)
It is so lovely to read about your adventures. I feel proud for my grandchildren to have such amazing experiences and taking it all in their stride. xx
Aw, thank you Mama xxxx
I love travelling with you guys! Where are we going next?
Well, we still have lots of Japan to visit, but we’re going back to Venice soon, hope that’s OK! :) Thank you! :D x
We stayed in Asakusa when we went to Tokyo and we spent ages at that temple and all the areas around it! We would have loved to have your OH around to help us with the food – we managed sushi and noodles but then mostly ate at restaurants with plastic plates of food outside so we could point at something that looked vaguely recognisable. The food was a bit of a minefield as I remember. Loving your pictures and travelogue on Japan ( I even put off going to bed to read this!)
Thank you! Sorry to have kept you up! :D Yes, Mr R had a huge list of restaurants and foods that he had to have before we came home. And there was me thinking I might lose weight on holiday for once because it would all be sushi and sashimi! :D
I just LOVE your photos and your stories about your Japanese adventures. What an amazing opportunity for your small ones!
xx Jazzy
Thank you Jazzy. Glad you like them! :) xx
I am so so jealous of your trip. It sounds so brilliant. Can’t wait for the next part. Re the trains, a colleague of mine was sent on a three month assignment to the office in Japan and as a 6 foot 4 blond, he became a source of much amusement. People used to stand by him and have their photo taken. He became a minor celebrity for a while :-) Really hope to visit there one day. Your kids are having such an amazing insight in to the world.
Aw thank you! Funnily enough, as a very small blonde, the 6 year old also became something of a minor celeb. He had his photo taken so many times and started blowing kisses to groups of teenage girls!!!! :D xx
Can’t wait for the next installment!
Thank you Leslie! :)
Wow planet Tokyo that is so true i think i would love Free food samples. i bet your daughter ate all her food up quickly with the fear of falling puffer fish poor thing lol .
Thank you. Yes, she certainly did! :D
Wow, looks like you are having an amamzing time
It was brilliant, thank you! :)
Ah – I love Japan. I travelled there 2 years ago and would go back any day. We spent some time in Kyoto, Japanese mountains and finished with a few days in Tokyo – one of the best holidays in my life! Your post brought back a lot of amazing memories. Great photos – love the fish :-)
We sound like we did a similar route to you! Thank you :)
Really enjoying this series. One day I would love to make it to Japan.
Thanks Sabrina! Glad you are enjoying it! :)