Wanting to make the most of the last of the Easter hols, we drove down through the breathtaking Brenner Pass to spend a few days in Verona (and a day in Venice which I will write about later!), a city full of history, legends, and very regal marble streets. It is also twinned with Munich coincidentally.
I can’t say that the weather was that kind to us while we were there, and we could have done with an ark at times. Not that we let that put a dampner on things(!), after all there was plenty to keep us occupied – like going for long leisurely lunches for example. I would recommend the family run restaurant La Greppia for such a meal. While the rain gave the city a good rinse outside, we had a lovely lunch, and the Small People were kept occupied for ages with what might have been the biggest plates of Spaghetti in the world (and a promise of a visit from the amazing dessert trolley for continuing good behaviour – wise Veronese parental tactics obviously!)!
It is great for food, and there are plenty of dishes we hadn’t come across before. It puzzled us what a strange sounding “dankki” sauce could be that waiters kept telling us about, until it dawned on us that it was donkey – a specialty of the region, served in a sauce not unlike bolognese. Instead I usually opted for another regional speciality, pumpkin ravioli in a butter sauce with parmesan, which was sublime! (We found that the roads behind the Duomo are particularly good for good Trattorie and Osterie away from the madding crowd. But if you’re too busy exploring you can always grab a panzerotti on the go, or a slice of pizza or bruschetta from the numerous shops dotted about).
Verona is of course also home to the story of Romeo and Giulietta. If your heart desires, you can fight your way through and admire the balcony where people like to imagine that Romeo courted the lady herself. And if you are really searching for love, you might try a quick rub of her breast – she’s there in statue form and apparently doing this brings you luck in the love department (if not making you look slightly debauched). There’s another Juliet statue in Munich (I had wondered who she was), just by the Toy Museum. I walked past her earlier today and I noticed that she also has one slightly shiny boob too!
Apparently thousands of lovelorn folk write letters to Juliet in Verona each year, and an army of volunteers take the time to reply. I would love this task, and would respond in appropriate mediaeval Marje Proops style… I would even colour the paper with cold tea and burn the edges and everything to make it look authentic, and give incredibly helpful advice like “Pray thank thee for thy letter. Verily it is so, that a bit like your love life, it happens that I probably didn’t exist. I thus pray you venture out and start enjoying yourself – let love find thee. Adieu, Juliet“…
What with letters and breast-rubbings, the poor girl doesn’t get much peace. I bet she’s really cross about all the graffiti in her courtyard though, I know I would be (although the graffiti is now scrawled on panels that are replaced throughout the year). My advice would be to visit first thing in the morning before everyone else is out of bed But honestly, if you don’t see it, don’t worry too much. There are lots of beautiful balconies in Verona, and you don’t have to look very hard, they are everywhere!
A small part of me thinks that a few locals don’t seem to be at peace with their city being a tourist mecca. Of course we met plenty of lovely and friendly locals too, but we also encountered rather surly and indifferent people, which I found surprising as it hasn’t been my experience in Italy before. From being snarled at by the woman on the ticket desk at the Arena when asking about the cost for example, to a couple of restaurant experiences that left us wishing we hadn’t bothered. Then there are the signs everywhere insisting that they “don’t have MAPS OK?”. This combined with a few street artists being overly aggressive with some poor naive folk not quick enough to cough up, it was a teeny bit depressing at times. But then I guess you can hardly blame them for feeling slightly jaded with the flocks, it must be annoying at times…
Having said that, it is a gorgeous city, and you shouldn’t let our experience with a few grumps put you off (it’s not going to stop me going back). And yes, some areas are busy, but you can visit the major attractions first thing in the morning (including the Arena, although bear in mind it stages huge operas and concerts throughout the year, so a lot of it might be taken up with scenery and chairs etc.) while everyone else is having breakfast. Then cross the ancient bridges (there are quite a few to choose from!) and explore the more residential neighbourhoods. This is where you will find the real Verona.
Take a walk (or a bus!) to the top of Castel San Pietro where you will also find the most beautiful vistas (even on a cloudy day), then find an enoteca and sample the beautiful local wines (I highly recommend the Amarone!). Then kiss goodbye to any diet you may be on and head to the closest Gelateria to overdose on some of the most divine ice-cream imaginable. Gelateria Savoia was probably our favourite! At over 70 years old they have the recipes perfected, it’s definitely worth a visit (the picture above was from another gelataria, we went to a few!).
Verona is quite child friendly too. It’s pedestrianised in a lot of areas so traffic’s not that much of an issue, and there are plenty of local children to play with in the various squares (under the watchful gaze of ancient statues)! There’s a great playground at the top of a hill next to the Porta Nuova (the monument, not the railway station!) where we managed a couple of hours between downpours. It also has a pizza restaurant in the grounds.
Both children can’t wait to go back, holidays are so exciting when you are small – especially the staying in hotels part! When we arrived, the Five Year Old inspected the room and announced that we would need to ask for another, as the bath was far too small. It was the bidet!
Ah, my heart leapt as soon as I saw your photo! I absolutely adore Verona! I went last year with a group of girlfriends and we stayed in the hotel just within the Romeo and Juliet courtyard. A stunning place and I would definitely go back. Interesting that you took the kids with you….may take ours next time…our just the OH! Thanks for linking to Oldies but Goodies :)
Wow, I bet that was a lovely place to stay! Was a little noisy though what with all the Romeo & Juliet admirers, and all that boob rubbing going on?? :) xx
Looks stunning, and it sounds great. I have always wanted to go to Venice, and I loved Rome. Italy has some treats. Where are you off to next?
We have yet to make it to Rome but can confirm that Venice is pretty lovely! Thank you Andrew! Off to Lake Garda next and then I am going to Sarajevo for a quick trip which I am excited about! :)
My husband is from Verona so we go quite often and it’s great to read such a nice review! My parents also visited with us once and I had to let her rub Juliet’s boob! I am afraid I have to admit that I have eaten donkey and some other meats which I probably should not mention here for fear of being accosted Lol! It was cool to see the mention of Amarone…a clear favourite for us well.
Thanks for popping over Brinabird, and the lovely comment! You lucky thing, so you get to go a lot? It’s a fabulous place, and the Amarone isn’t half bad either!! :)
I’ve been to Rome, but not Verona…I’ve added it to my list! I’d never heard of the Juliet letters – reminds me a bit of the letters to Santa so many U.S. kids write…I don’t know if there are any volunteers who answer them, though!
Loved the part about the bidet – sounds like something my boys would have thought!
Brilliant! Let me know when you go, I will pop down and meet you for a swift Soave! I have heard about Father Christmas volunteers, so I really really hope so! :)
we came very close to going to verona while we were in venice. but it didn’t happen. now, after reading this, it almost feels like it it after all. a lovely post, emma. and guess what the only perishable item was, which i brought back from our trip? pumpkin ravioli! wrapped in layers, deep inside my suitcase. perfect dinner when we reached home :)
Thanks Pia… The pumpkin ravioli is lovely isn’t it? :)
sounds like a fun trip for the whole fam. i had never heard about the juliets before. the quick rub of her breast was too funny ; )
Thank you! It was! I hadn’t either… Wondered what on earth they were doing! :D
It looks and sounds beautiful!
Thank you Sharon :)
Oh lovely, i would have chosen pumpkin over donkey any day. lol you would have thought they would embrace a mass money boosting enterprise in the region such as tourism, they sound almost French with the arrogant in different attitude OK! Fab pictures you have taken
I know… some people have done it seems, and others are still fighting it! I know you get it anywhere but it just surprised me in Italy! Thank you :)
Fabulous review of a place we should really have visited when we stayed in Lake Garda, but it was so hot we couldn’t face a trip to the city.
I’ve noted this post for my BritMums travel round up, beginning of May. Love it.
Thank you Trish… But you could have sat on the floor of the geletaria to eat icecream if nothing else!!! :)
Hi Cuz!
Sorry you had bad weather in Verona – but it looks like you had a wonderful time regardless. Ash and I will be in Verona for three days on our trip so we will go to some of your recommended places, especially the gelateria!! Speak soon xx
Wow Florence, you will love it I am sure… I will send you a private message with a few more recommendations (and the two restaurants to not bother with!!)… xxx
I recall watching a film on a plane about the Juliets responding to those letters and something about a very old one and finding true love but I can’t remember what it was called, I know I really enjoyed it though. It sounds lovely, busy but lovely.
I am going to have to look for that now, sounds really interesting! :) It was busy, but it was also very lovely, Venice even more so (and even busier!!)…
Letters to Juliette 2010 I had to go hunting it down, it was annoying me :) good film. Bit of a chick flick.
I will search it out on Lovefilm… Thanks for that (:
Poor, poor Juliet. I would not like to trade places with her ;-) Sounds like you had a fantastic time. I’ve never been but would like to.
I know, can you imagine that day in day out? It was lovely thank you, and you must go if you get the chance :)