{"id":18643,"date":"2019-01-17T22:55:33","date_gmt":"2019-01-17T22:55:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.thesojournseries.com\/bavaria\/?p=18643"},"modified":"2019-01-21T18:30:55","modified_gmt":"2019-01-21T18:30:55","slug":"a-meander-around-merano","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thesojournseries.com\/bavaria\/a-meander-around-merano\/","title":{"rendered":"A Meander around Merano"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Merano\"<\/p>\n

It’s around this time of year that I tend to dream about spas.\u00a0 \u00a0All that Christmas indulgence combined with the general greyness of the UK currently (in terms of mood and<\/em> weather) means I wouldn’t give too much thought about jumping on a plane for a week or so, in order to regain a bit of equilibrium in both my health and<\/em>\u00a0my “need of peace” departments.<\/p>\n

Sud Tyrol is a region that always appeals.\u00a0 It has over 70 spas, all of them offering various ancient natural therapies,\u00a0 including slightly more unusual treatments such as hay baths that alpine farmers have sworn by for years.\u00a0 Whilst being covered in hay might not be your idea of a relaxing treat (quite typical of a day at a farm park with the Toddler for me), then lounging about in restorative thermal waters might appeal a little more, as might treatments with edelweiss and other curative properties found in local alpine produce such as honey and apples…<\/p>\n

\"merano\"<\/p>\n

During our Vipeteno visit<\/a> last year, we ventured over to Merano (not to be confused with Murano<\/a> in Venice<\/a>\u00a0which is more therapeutic for its glass buying opportunities) for the day.\u00a0 At 3,335 metres above sea level, it sits in a perfect basin surrounded by alpine peaks and vineyards (the local wine is Meraner Leiten btw) and it’s FULL of spas and thermal pools (the Terme Merano has 25 pools alone!)…<\/p>\n

Merano became uber famous as the<\/em> ultimate health destination after becoming a favourite with Empress Sisi – wife of Emporer Franz Joseph of Austria, back in the 1800’s.\u00a0 \u00a0She became a firm devotee thanks to its thermal waters and favourable climate that helped cure her ailing baby daughter.<\/p>\n

The association with Sisi here remains, and a walk was created in her honour, retracing her steps from the town itself, through parks dedicated to her, and up to Schloss Trautsmansdorff<\/a> where she resided whilst visiting.\u00a0 This walk is somewhere around 4km in length and wheel friendly if you happen to be there with a pushchair (or wheelchair obviously).<\/p>\n

We didn’t have time to walk this on the day we visited, mostly because it took us ages to find a parking space (you would have thought I would have learned after Bolzano<\/a> – let that be a warning to you!\u00a0 Arrive as early as you possibly can or risk raised stress levels all round)…\u00a0 But Merano (or Meran if you are German-speaking – at least half of the population speak German, and the other half Italian here!) is definitely worth any amount of parking stress, even if you aren’t stopping for a bit of a healthy respite, packed as it is with history and fabulous Art Nouveau architecture (the Kurhaus perched majestically on the promenade is a prime example)…<\/p>\n

\"merano
Merano Kurhaus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Our visit didn’t start off all that well what with the parking, and with (by now) three hangry children.\u00a0 \u00a0Then followed a run in with the most miserable proprietor of a small trattoria – who was obviously interested in our money, but not in us actually being there (this place rates highly on that bespectacled owl travel review site by the way.\u00a0 Message me if you are visiting and want the name of it.\u00a0 I would mention it here, but as a believer in karma I will give the owner the benefit of the doubt.\u00a0 She could have just been having a seriously bad day!)… This turn of events all meant that having “run out of time”, we ended up settling for bratwurst in the town square, not wanting to risk one of our offspring imploding.<\/p>\n

It’s funny, I have come across this kind of “can’t be bothered to serve you” attitude and general lack of enthusiasm (and friendliness) in places that receive more than the typical quota of “guests” before (yes Verona I am looking at you<\/a>!).\u00a0 I suppose you can’t really blame the locals for that.\u00a0 It’s just that as their income tends to depend mostly on the money that these visitors bring, they might want to think a little more about that before the visitors decide to spend it elsewhere (on Bratwurst)…<\/p>\n

\"Laubengasse
Laubengasse Alle Merano<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

ANYWAY, our unplanned town square picnic (complete with pigeon pretzel thief that almost tipped this Mother over the edge) position meant that we were at the beginning of one of the oldest shopping streets in this part of Europe.\u00a0 Laubengasse Alle<\/a> is around 800 years old, and stretches uphill from the river, giving you a great view of the mountain ahead of you as you trudge up it.\u00a0 \u00a0It’s lined with shops, restaurants and delis which all act as a good distraction…<\/p>\n

\"Bratwurst
Bratwurst anyone?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Aperol
Aperol instead?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"Merano\"<\/p>\n

As we trudged upwards, Merano struck me as\u00a0 a place with a split personality.\u00a0 Its South of the Alps position and favourable climate gives it a Mediterranean feel on a sunny day… Sit with an Aperol in one of the squares (which we did, the day got progressively better and better) and you could be in Tuscany.\u00a0 Turn a corner and the restaurant menus and buildings would have you believe you are in a bustling Austrian town…<\/p>\n

\"Merano\"
Cloud Street – Merano<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I would actually really love to see Merano in the Winter (you know, right after Christmas and all that – hint hint Mr R!), I could gaze out at the mountain peaks from the warmth of a thermal pool, whilst he chucked himself down one at Meran 2000<\/a> the local ski resort…<\/p>\n

\"Different
different architectural styles<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"St
St Nicholas Church Merano<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Merano landmarks to look out for are the medieval city gates, St Nicholas’s church (with its distinctive sundial) and St Barbara’s chapel just behind.\u00a0 The Steinerner Steg (a medieval footbridge) is also reportedly worth inspecting, although slightly out-of-town, and of course there’s Trautsmannsdorff Castle.<\/p>\n

\"promenade
Promenade Merano<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"River
River Passer<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"merano\"<\/p>\n

\"Merano\"<\/p>\n

\"Merano\"<\/p>\n

We just happily meandered until we reached the promenade alongside the Kurhaus and admired the roaring River Passer.\u00a0 Then it was time to be very glad about being in Italy, as it was definitely time for gelato…<\/p>\n

As we made our way back to the car for the drive back to Vipeteno, we all reflected that our trip to Merano had been great in the end after a somewhat bumpy start, but for me at least, the best was yet to come… (to be continued)…<\/p>\n

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