Like everything in my life at the moment (in that it all seems a little bit upside down and back to front right now) – I am starting with our last port of call during our Italia trip – to beautiful Bergamo (school started back again Wednesday, and I finally have time to plough through my notebooks and hundreds of photographs without interruption from “helpers”). If you suspect this might be a picture heavy post, you are right – just to get the ball rolling!
The name has nothing to do with Bergamot by the way (which, as Earl Grey is one of my favourite teas, I was slightly disappointed about). I guess the clue is there though – “Berg” as in mountains, as a little like one of my favourite cities, it’s surrounded by mountains in the foothills of The Alps… It makes sense then that it’s also a great starting point for a ski trip in the surroundings. When we first arrived, our taxi driver was enthusing about the “wall of snow” still in place, and that was just over a week or so ago…
It turns out I was rather unfairly expecting Bergamo to be a little sketchy perhaps given it’s the main Ryanair hub for Milan, but guess what? It’s beautiful, has a fascinating ancient past, and is definitely well worth a visit in its own right, let alone during any extended Milan trip – especially given that it’s only an hour from there by train.
We caught the train to Bergamo from Milan at the end of our week-long trip, and as this particular journey was both cheap and easy, it made me almost weep at how expensive and ridiculous train travel can often be in the UK.
Having walked through the main station we were greeted by a life-sized model dinosaur just outside somewhat bizarrely, hoping we might pay him and his friends a visit in the history museum in the citadel I expect (sadly not to be this visit!). The sight of him made the toddler’s day, which meant we were then able to faff about without complaint or interruption as the rest of us wrestled with coins in the left luggage lockers by the bus station.
If you are here to see the medieval part of the city (Citta Alta, or Old Town) perched high on top of its hill, you can’t really miss it, which is generally good for family travellers like us that get lost more often than not.
We set off in the direction of the funicular to take us to the top (I am sure you could walk if you aren’t pushed for time, but the funicular is fun (another toddler placater too!) and only costs a few euros for a return family ticket)…
They aren’t joking about the Alta part by the way, they think the first settlement here was back in 49BC… The lower levels of the city (Citta Bassa) are definitely worth exploring too, there’s lovely architecture everywhere (including the very Art Nouveau Post Telegrafi building) and a mass of interesting shops and restaurants. You will find much of Bergamo as it always has been as it remained generally unscathed during the war.
Once you step out of the funicular at the top, you will find yourself amongst the city walls, built by the Venetians who controlled the city for over 350 years (look out the many trademark lions). On a quiet morning it’s almost like stepping back in time, before Bergamo’s many visitors begin to turn up! This is a place renowned for its beauty, so you can hardly blame them for wanting a peep too!
We spent a happy few hours wandering the winding lanes and exploring piazzas (keep an eye out for Via Arena, once the site of a Roman Amphitheatre), playing our usual “where should we eat for lunch” game that I am sure our offspring will remember us for one day. This typically involves wandering from restaurant to restaurant and vetoing them for one reason or another, until we usually end up back where we started (please tell me this is not just us?)!
On this particular journey we passed La Marianna the restaurant and pasticceria rumoured to be the birthplace of straciatella flavoured gelato, plus many other wonderful cake shops piled high with yellow Polenta e Osei Cakes that can only be found in Bergamo (which don’t contain any polenta in case you were wondering!)
Along the way we climbed a few staircases (a current toddler obsession), witnessed some holy hoovering in the spectacular Basilica Maria Maggiore, a major attraction in Bergamo, and quite simply as beautiful inside as it is out. If you don’t like the religious side of things, there’s some incredible art on display too…
We had time to splash about in an ancient fountain or two in Piazza Vecchia (the heart of the old city) before arriving (as expected!!) back at the very first restaurant we considered – Caffe del Tasso… I am so glad we came back.
They specialise in the best aperativi, so we had time for one final Aperol Spritz along with various accompanying dishes of sinful goodness, before enjoying a final few plates of home-made pasta and gnocchi before our trip home (their homemade gnocchi with wild mushrooms and cheese sauce is one of the nicest things I had during our entire trip!), and all beneath one of those Venetian Lions.
Bergamo was such a lovely surprise. It was a real highlight in a week full of Milan loveliness, and would definitely be somewhere I would consider as a destination in its own right.
It also helps that it specialises in a lot of my favourite things – cakes, aperitivi, history, and straciatella, what’s not to like? Maybe consider stopping off for a day or two when you are next in Milan? I don’t think you’ll regret it!
Wow, what a place. It looks beautiful and maybe not quite as discovered as other places? I’m the same with restaurants too!! Thanks for sharing on cultured kids
I am so glad it’s not just us with the restaurant wandering! :D Thanks Megan! (:
We loved Bergamo as well and we were very similarly so surprised to discover this arty medieval looking charming town! We need to go back with the kiddies! #Culturedkids
I love that you have been there too! It was such a lovely surprise for us! :) Thank you.
We have a running joke in our family that we can’t pick a place to eat until we’ve wandered aimlessly for two hours. We’ve even now just started checking the watch before we head out for dinner. I think giving up and heading straight for dessert especially if its gelato is always a good idea, but that might just be me. #farawayfiles
Oh I am so glad it’s not just us! :D Thanks Hilary! :)
It looks absolutely delightful, Emma, and stracciatella ice-cream gives it a reason to visit in its own right in my opinion! We do that with restaurant hunting too, by the way. For some reason, hunger makes me incapable of making decisions about where to eat – I’m always on the look out for that ‘perfect’ place! Thanks for sharing on #FarawayFiles
I am so glad it’s not just us. The hours we must have spent looking for somewhere to eat, and then usually end up back at our first choice anyway! :D x
Those polenta/not polenta cakes look yummy! I think I might have flown into Bergamo when I visied Milan with my Mum, many years ago. We should have taken a leaf out of your book, and lingered there a while!
Next time Nell, next time! :) x
what beautiful architecture! I’d love to see these! x
Thanks Fritha!
Beautiful photos, Emma. I have never been to Bergamo but it’s certainly on my list now. #culturedkids
Thanks so much Scarlett! It’s definitely worth a visit! (:
I’ve been here too, you’re right, a proper little hidden gem:) nice photos #farawayfiles
So lovely isn’t it? Thanks Tanja! (:
Surely a hidden gem. The third photo you posted here sold me on the idea of visiting this personally unheard of place. The architecture and vibe seems to be in a world all of its own! #farawayfiles
Thanks so much Daniel, it’s a really sweet place to visit! (:
What a fab surprise! Sometimes when our expectations are lowered our minds become a bit more open to the things we’re experiencing. Thanks for the great tour around Bergamo and for linking up with #MondayEscapes
Thank you Claire! It wasn’t so much as a low expectation but no expectation. Maybe I need to start every journey with that! :D x
Isn’t it lovely when a place turns out to be more than what we were expecting? I always try to go without getting my expectations too high! The cathedral here looks stunning! #CityTripping
I think that’s a good attitude to have! Thank you! (:
Bergamo looks stunning. I’d love to visit and eat gelato #citytripping
Thanks Leona, it really is! (:
What a beautiful place. I visited Italy for the first time last month and can’t wait to explore more. Kaz
Be careful Kaz, Italy is addictive!! :D x
This place looks amazing. I have never heard of bergamo, but it looks like a beautiful place to go
It really is beautiful. Thanks Vicky! (:
I have never heard of Bergamo before but your photos look stunning. Sometimes the unheard of towns that become hubs for larger cities are better places to visit. We found that when we landed in Girona
Thanks so much Kara. Would love to visit Girona! :)
Wow what a stunning place to visit! The architecture is so beautiful!
Thank you Laura! (:
What stunning buildings! It looks like you walked and explored so much. That food looks yummy!
Thanks Laura. Yes, we really did! :)
We had a girls weekend in Bergamo years ago and it is as you say beautiful and easy to get to. #CulturedKids
That sounds great! Thanks Catherine! (:
I love finding little towns like this that are a little off the tourist track! I find they can be such hidden gems! That artwork in the Basilica is just stunning, what beautiful pieces to look at.
Thanks so much Emma (:
You captured so much in your photos and descriptions!
Thanks so much! (:
the architecture is stunning – one of my favourite things about Europe. I have been to Milan before but not to this part
Thanks Rebecca! (:
Oh my gosh it looks like such a beautiful place, the cathedral (??) looks so stunning and detailed!
It is such a lovely place to explore. Thanks Sarah! (:
Bergamo looks great. I’m yet to visit Italy but now this is on my bucket list! I would especially enjoy sampling the local cuisine and eating my body weight in gelato ;)
Thanks so much Kacie! (:
Looks and sounds amazing, Hux would have been happy to see the dinosaur too!xx
Hux would have LOVED the dinosaurs! Thank you. x