Continuing with my mission to treat this area as I would a new expat location, and to see as many new places as we can in my own country…
When my darling Mum offered to look after the children for a night so we could go away for my birthday weekend recently, we headed to Bury St Edmunds – for no other reason than it’s not all that far away in case of an emergency, and because neither of us had ever visited before…
Waved off by our small brood and their bonkers granny, we enjoyed the quick drive there. There’s something really nice about only having a half an hour journey before reaching your destination, and all without having to go anywhere near an airport…
The Angel Hotel was our home for the night, and our light and airy top floor suite was just lovely, with views out across the Abbey Gate, and to the immaculate walled gardens beyond. A coaching inn has stood on this central site since the 15th century, but nowadays it has a definite boutique hotel feel, and there’s a lot I liked about it…
Despite being a listed building, so incredibly old and quite wonky in parts, and with a wedding in full flow in The Athenaeum next door (where Charles Dickens would give readings, and afterwards stay at the Angel himself!) our room was surprisingly quiet which is very important when you are in desperate need of a little peace, even if that only serves to illustrate how loud your tinnitus actually is…
Staff are very friendly and helpful (they even park your car for you), the room had lots of little touches to make our stay as comfortable as possible, and it also had the most incredible copper bath I think I have ever had the pleasure of wallowing in (as parents of young children will appreciate, soaking until your skin gets wrinkly without the constant intrusion of any small people made the whole thing even more luxurious!)…
We didn’t have dinner at The Angel on this occasion, but enjoyed a rather decent G&T down in the Wingspan bar in the depths of the cellar (look out for lots of quirky furniture down here – chairs made from bits of plane and the like!) later that evening, not to mention an excellent breakfast the following morning in the sun flooded dining room…
After dumping our bags, our first port of call was a pot of proper English tea and a shared welsh rarebit in Harriet’s Tea Room whilst we slowly adjusted to being sans enfants, and decided on our plan of action for the rest of the afternoon (we also liked the Really Rather Good Coffee shop which lives up to its name!)…
We explored the Abbey Gardens and had a quick wander around the magnificent Cathedral and grounds (look out for the 11th century ruins of the Benedictine Abbey, and the row of houses in West Front formed from the remains of the ruined Cathedral walls that once stood here!). Then we explored the colourful Saturday afternoon market before thinking about stopping for a quick drink somewhere. We couldn’t fit in The Nutshell (officially the Smallest Pub in Britain at 15ft x 7ft!) as it was packed, but it looks like a real character packed full of weird and wonderful things both in memorabilia and customer form (there was actually live music the day we visited, but the band played outside as they couldn’t fit in the pub either!)! Although I don’t make a habit of inhabiting Wetherspoons pubs, the one in the old Victorian Corn Exchange building is worth a visit to get some idea of the history of the building, and to appreciate the gorgeous glass roof… We also managed a swift half in the Dog and Partridge very close to the Greene King Brewery (which you can tour by the way, and it also has a shop), before a spot of shopping.
Later we walked to Pea Porridge for dinner. Named after the street it resides on, you definitely need to book a table at this restaurant well in advance given the size of the place, and the fact that its opening hours are quite particular (which I think it can be completely forgiven for given that it’s rather good).
A lot of the food here is cooked in a charcoal Bertha oven, and there’s a definite slow food feel to the menu with. Combined with excellent wines, and impeccable service, it all makes for a great experience. As it was my birthday after all, I went for the half lobster on a bed of samphire which came with the most amazing crispy chips. The dessert was also memorable – banana beignets with cinnamon ice cream…
Waddling back through Bury’s quiet ancient streets much later on, we both came to the conclusion that it really is one of those towns that England does rather well, steeped in history, full of lamp lit cobbled streets littered with half timbered buildings, lots of great places to eat and many other things that we have missed whilst we have been away. It’s obvious that its residents and caretakers care about the place massively, and that’s evident from the masses of well manicured gardens, and a distinct lack of rubbish anywhere…
We returned to Cambridge the next afternoon after a leisurely morning wandering Bury St Edmund’s farmer’s market, relaxed and happy. Thankfully everyone had survived at home – despite the baby having a sudden fever, granny falling halfway down the stairs, and at one point all of them almost ending up back in London after a wrong turn on the motorway after a trip to the supermarket. Granny didn’t want to bother us though as she thought we could do with a break, and whilst it had me making a mental note to do exactly the same for my offspring when I have grandchildren of my own one day (and I really wouldn’t have minded if she had given us a shout!), I am grateful she didn’t, a weekend away with just the two of us was the perfect present in itself…
Marina says
Happy birthday, Emma! Isn’t it funny to think that a vacation close to home for you could be the trip of a lifetime for someone else? I love when people write about where they are, because it gives us a glimpse of elsewhere.
Emma says
That’s a really good way of looking at it! Thank you! (:
Jenny says
That bath is amazing! It all looks so picturesque, looks like you had a wonderful time!
Emma says
We really did. Thanks Jenny!(:
Lubka Henry says
What a lovely plaace for a weekend getaway. I’m sure you’ve enjoyed your little adventure.
Emma says
We really did, thank you! :)
Eat Explore Etc says
This looks like a lovely stay – and though I used to dislike black pudding, the picture here had me going “ooooh that looks good.” I think I might have been influenced by those cold Bavarian ‘sausages’ of random meat. :D I’m glad you got a little bit of peaceful, relaxing time – belated happy birthday to you!
Emma says
Thanks so much… I have plenty of Yorkshire blood, so when you get a really good black pudding, I think it’s hard to beat! :D
Lauretta at Home and Horizon says
Happy Birthday! Looks like you had a great time without the need to travel miles and miles away just to have a getaway.
Emma says
That was one of the best bits! Thanks Lauretta! :)
Healthy & Psyched says
Sounds like you had a lovely weekend and that hotel is amazing – I NEED that bath!!!!
Emma says
It is a beautiful bath! :D Thank you!
Nichola - Globalmouse says
Wow, what a wonderful time away (poor granny falling down the stairs though, she sounds amazing!). The hotel looks beautiful and the town so picturesque, I really want to visit. Gorgeous photos.
Emma says
Thanks so much Nichola, she is a super gran! :D x
Grace says
Reading this gave me a giggle, reminding me of our ‘eventful weekend’ while you were away enjoying yourself! So lovely to hear such exquisite English towns exist. I know the name but you very rarely hear such a lovely description to tempt you to visit.
Emma says
Thanks Mum. Glad you survived!! :D x
Victoria says
Looks lovely, your dinner sounds delicious xx
Emma says
I thought you might approve! :D xx
Super Busy Mum says
What a stunning looking place to stay – also, can we just stop for a moment to talk about the bath tub? #bathroomgoals
Emma says
Amazing isn’t it? Even my bath hating ten year old thought it was amazing when he saw this picture! :D
Rhian Westbury says
I’ve never been to Bury St Edmunds but it looks really nice and it’s so good that you managed to get away for your birthday x
Emma says
Thanks so much Rhian! A rare treat nowadays! :D x
Patrick says
What a beautiful overnight escape you two enjoyed,this would be such a lovely place to spend a week at.
Emma says
It’s a really lovely town. Thanks Patrick! :)
Ashleigh Dougherty says
What a gorgeous place to spend your birthday! That bath is amazing!
Emma says
It is a really lovely weekend bolthole! Thanks Ashleigh! :)
Nayna Kanabar says
Bury st Edmunds looks like fabulous place to visit. Its great when you can have some quality time away for the kids just to unwind and relax.
Emma says
Really special, and incredibly rare! :D Thanks Nayna! :)
Sarah Bailey says
Oh wow what a lovely sounding time you had in Bury St Edmunds, I have to admit I’ve never been before but you make me want to explore.
Emma says
It’s definitely worth exploring! Thanks Sarah! :)
Trish says
We’ve only really just driven through Bury St Edmunds which is a pity as it looks lovely. The hotel looks gorgeous and the copper bath gives it the wow factor. Love your choice for dinner too – sounds perfect. We’re big fans of Suffolk so appreciate the suggestions.
ps – I have tinnitus too!
Emma says
Make sure you visit it properly soon. It’s really lovely (plus I want to see what you think of the tiniest pub in England!) :D Tinnitus is super annoying. Got vertigo and subsequently tinnitus after a whooping cough vaccine the Kinderarzt made me have last year when the baby was small… :/
Trish says
Blimey – that’s tough having it after a vaccine. Mine was caused by going with my brother to see heavy metal bands when I was a teenager!!
Emma says
So weird. The vertigo was the worst thing though! I think I might have a bit of concert/festival induced tinnitus as well though! :D
Lorelle says
What a wonderful birthday weekend away. Looks like you had a great time Emma. :)
Emma says
Thanks Lorelle, we really did! :)