I think we should go to Bonifacio tomorrow…
We’ll set out super early to get there before anyone else, so we won’t have to deal with the snaking traffic that can back up along the road leading down to the harbour – if you leave a minute too late. No, don’t worry about something to eat before you set out, I am promising you one of the nicest breakfasts you will have during your time in Corsica – a freshly baked almond croissant from the little artisan boulangerie (Noel Faby & Fils) just opposite the natural harbour, still promisingly warm and heavenly scented…
It’s your choice next whether to eat it whilst admiring the gargantuan yachts bobbing about in the marina in front of you (including Vertigo, perhaps the biggest luxury sail yacht I have ever seen. You can charter it for a bargainous 245,000 Euros per week if you are looking for a last-minute break!!), or you can feel like you have truly earned such a sweet start to the day by climbing the steep incline of Montee Rastello, and then on to the steps up to the citadel some 70 metres above the harbour (there’s a little train to do the hard work in the height of the season apparently!)…
We chose the latter during our Bonifacio explorations (Corsica’s oldest and most southerly commune), stopping off to stuff our faces with otherworldly pastries, whilst overlooking the bluest of seas (and what might have been a pirate ship), with Sardinia (we will get to you one day!) serving as a hazy backdrop.
Afterwards we finished the climb up to the magnificent 9th century Citadel, and the Haute Ville by passing through the original ancient gateway and city wall, whereupon we were immediately transported back into a kind of time capsule, with a warren of medieval buildings (reminding me of Venice and Rovinj at the same time) ahead.
The narrow streets are filled with statuesque buildings some 6/7 stories high, but typically only one room wide. Apparently many of them didn’t have doors at street level originally, with residents then preferring to hoist up ladders after themselves out of fear of intruders – which could have made for awkwardness on moving in day (although we once had to get a sofa in through our second floor London flat window with the help of a few friends and a rope, so I can kind of imagine!), but the doors that are on show nowadays are quite special for those of you who have a bit of a thing about them (like me!)…
Take your time to wander (you can explore the old town intensively in a couple of hours, a few more if you have a photographer with you, and/or stop off for a leisurely lunch), or you could miss some real gems such as tiny chapels that you might otherwise mistake for houses and walk straight past, and the Rue Des Empereurs home to Charles V for a while and to Napoleon’s ancestral home (obviously a couple of hundred years apart!). There are a couple of plaques marking out both, so make sure you look up. You should absolutely make a point of looking up anyway whilst in Bonifiacio or you might miss things like this anyway…
There are so many architectural influences from Bonifacio’s various rulers and caretakers over the centuries, including the Tuscans, Pisans, Genoese and ultimately the French. It’s easy to wonder where you are exactly when you turn a corner…
The Citadel is divided between the old town, and a few ancient military fortifications towards the end of the peninsula, which are worth exploring too. Walk past the covered market place (there’s a gorgeous shady courtyard to the back of here if you are in need!), through the archway with the sky blue door, and out past the huge abandoned barracks (quite eerie, and home to the French Foreign Legion once upon a time) and the Church of St Dominique. Follow the road through the car park, and you will be rewarded with some spectacular views back across the old town, and down to Bonifacio Harbour…
Keep walking and you can look down upon plenty of secluded coves with turquoise waters and white sands (which you can hire snorkelling boats to from the Marina), and will eventually lead you to the picturesque Cemeterie Marin and plenty of bird watching and hiking trails beyond…
We didn’t make it as far down to the trails and the cemetery this visit, and we decided against a trip down the Staircase of the King of Aragon too (which rates very highly on Bonifacio’s list of things to do) – I am not good descending steep thin steps at the best of times, but when there are 189 of them, and you have to climb back up with a pushchair and a toddler who’s intent on chucking a shoe as far as he can every few seconds, forget it (apparently the steps down to Le Gouvernail de la Course are a little easier, and the view is just as spectacular anyway)…
Instead we spent a memorable few hours wandering the shady streets (taking around 50,000 pictures) as the place woke up for the day, watching as restaurateurs chalked up their boards with their day’s enticing offerings, and as bakers piled up windows with tiny hot fresh beignets (we did have to stop and sample a couple, together with some good coffee – you know I can’t resist a cake recommendation, and we had been informed that you haven’t really visited Corsica unless you’ve had a beignet!), revelling in the slight smugness of feeling like we had seen the best of the place just as it started to get really hot and busy. Plus, after a leisurely lunch (we liked the tiny Cantina Doria for a quick refuel), we had the rest of the day for the beach!!
Anyway, trust me, whichever part of the Citadel you are visiting, the earlier you make it to Bonifacio the better, as you will have all those wonderful streets to yourself (and if you are lucky, bathed in the most beautiful light) before the hoards arrive, which they will (especially in July and August!!), but you can’t really blame anyone for wanting to see this town in the sky now can you?
Thanks to school summer hols and the toddler who is pretty full on at the moment in that hilarious nearly two kind of way, it’s taken me a while to get the Corsican posts up and running (and editing all those 50,000 pictures!), but I do have a couple more in the pipeline!
Crackin’ foto of the Croissant and rocks and blurry boat, now that is a phrase you do not hear often
Thanks Bass! :D
What a lovely place to visit. I love visiting places that have a different style of architecture. I love the idea of hiking through that beautiful scenery as well.
There are so many kinds of architecture here too! Thanks Emma! (:
This post is full of all the things I love about your blog – fabulous photos, interesting observations, tips and humour – loving the shoe flinger and that phrase ‘which could have made for awkwardness on moving in day’ had me chuckling so much. xx
Thanks so much Trish! :D xx
I had no idea you were holidaying with kids until the end! Good mix of sight seeing and beach by the sounds of things. Which shows it can be done. Look forward to seeing the other posts and I love the photos keep them coming x
Thanks so much! :) X
Happy sigh. These pictures were heaven to my soul today. :-) How utterly beautiful!!
Thank you Krista! I am glad you like them! :)
Fab photos – this has really inspired me to visit! We went to Corsica when the children were little but it was so hot we didn’t do a great deal of exploring that time. Bonifacio looks lovely!
Aw thank you. Yes, I would really recommend going back. I would like to explore a little more too! :)
This sounds such a perfect day. Corsica isn’t an island I had ever thought of visiting, it looks and sounds gorgeous though. Definitely one to add to my travel wishlist!
It’s a great place for a visit… Thanks Helen! :)
I love little quaint towns like this. Definitely a great spot for fashion bloggers haha!
Definitely! :D
Wow, I’ve never heard of Bonifacio before but it looks so stunning and a lovely place to visit. I would like to do the staircase of the king of Aragon!
Me too, just not with the pushchair! :D Thanks Jenni!
I’ve never heard of Bonifacio, but it looks absolutely beautiful! xx
Thanks Stephanie! :)
Wow, what a bargain price for a week’s charter! But in all seriousness, that place looks amazing! I love the architecture!
I know right, I might just book it for half term too! :D Thanks Gareth! :)
Your snaps of Corsica are a-maz-ing, it looks amazing. It’s on our list to explore as even from photos you can just tell how welcoming it is. Can’t wait to read more about your trip!
Thanks so much Rosie! (:
We love the quaint streets and the amazing doorways. I bet they are kinda thankful they don’t need to climb ladders anymore! Fab piccys!
Could be awkward with the shopping too! :D Thank you! :)
Wow some of those views are spectacular . I’ve never been before, but it looks just the sort of place my husband and I love to explore. I definitely want my girls to explore more of the world.
It’s really worth a visit. Thanks Laura! :)
Wow what a beautiful place! I am glad to see and read that you have had such a great time and memories have certainly been made!
Thanks Tamara! :)
Wow what a gorgeous place!! Those blue skies are pretty amazing, we have never been to Corsica but I’ve heard some amazing reviews of the country. 50,000 photos a day is good going!! Your photos are stunning!
Thanks so much… My husband is a very lovely patient man! :D
You are so blessed because you were able to visit one of the loveliest places in the world. We love to travel and we’re hoping that we can also visit that place soon!
Thank you Journa! :)
Absolutely love your post. The photos you have shown are beautiful, the description of what you did is fabulous, and the breakfast, well that is worth the wait. Wonderful places to visit, wonderful things to see.
Thank you Jen! (:
We haven’t been to corsica, but it just looks beautiful! And that almond croissant.. yum!
Worth a visit for both those reasons and more! :D Thank you! :)
I love how beautifully everything works together, from the grandest building to a street corner cafe.
Thanks Emily!
What a stunning place. I’m adding to this to my bucket list of places to visit.
That’s great! Thanks Jemma! (:
wow looks like a lovely place to visit, I have never been here before but it sure is now on my travel wish list
Thanks Melissa! (:
What lovely views and a great way to enjoy breakfast. I love a good almond croissant x
Thanks so much Rhian! :) x
I’ve never been to Corsica before – but I’ve heard so many good things about the island. I’d love to visit it one day x
Oh you must Becca! (: Thank you!
You had me at the croissant, but the old buildings are also stunning. Definitely somewhere I would like to visit!
We must be very similar! :D Thank you! :)
It sounds absolutely wonderful! Would love to visit … especially after seing that oozy croissant…
Definitely a highlight! Thank you Jeanette!
What a gorgeous place! I’ve never been to Corsica before but it’s definitely going on the bucket list x
Thanks Stephanie. It’s definitely worth going on that list! :)
Those water are so blue! What kind of food did you eat for lunch? Did they have a lot of different kinds of food there or just French and Italian? I did see the little “tapas” sign, though.
Thanks Marina. Lots of Italian influences there, but the local specialities include lots of charcuterie, figs, honey and hazelnuts!
Such a picturesque place! Your photos have captured it so well.
Thank you Nadine! (:
Wow!!! This place looks stunning and is giving me some major holiday envy right now! Your photos are beautiful as well and really do the place justice :)
Thanks so much Ami! (:
Breathtakingly beautiful.
Thanks so much! :)
Looks a fascinating and especially mouth watering kind of place to visit. x
It really was, thanks Mum! x
Oh wow. What an absolutely fantastic trip. I’d love to visit myself. Your pictures are stunning. X
Thank you Samantha! (: x
Looks amazing Emma, will pin this for later reference. :)
Great! Thanks Lorelle! :)
It sounds lovely, would never have thought to go there before!xx
Add it to your list spud. xx