The view from the kitchen sink…
My initial relationship with skiing might have been much more positive if I hadn’t first been subjected to the concrete monstrosities of certain European resorts. The same resorts that managed to destroy the image I had of a picture perfect place with traditional alpine buildings, set in picturesque streets and all surrounded by beautiful mountains. Mealtimes SHOULD have consisted of delicious fondues on sun-drenched terraces, instead of greasy frites and cheap red wine in the depressing interiors of the grotty cafes of reality. Locals SHOULD have been friendly and welcoming (instead of surly and rude), Ski lifts SHOULD have been a pleasure rather than a scrum, slopes SHOULD have been empty-ish (instead of the opposite), and all dogs in the vicinity SHOULD have been Saint Bernards (of course)!
I could blame Mr R I suppose, he was in charge of organising huge annual work ski trips for quite a few years, and by popular demand went for the more raucous locations. Some of these places might not have been pretty (massive understatement), but I can’t say we didn’t have fun, even if hangovers meant that skiing lessons were chucked out of the window on consecutive days by the few of us in the group that couldn’t ski well (and which definitely accounts for my current skiing abilities)…
Nowadays we are all older and wiser, and I am vastly more in favour of the idea of my imaginary resort that I had first hoped for all those years ago (before trampled dreams). And, Ladies and Gentlemen, I am completely happy to tell you that it actually exists.
Andermatt is real, and it’s picture perfect. It has masses of traditional alpine buildings, and its picturesque streets are filled with restaurants, bars, the odd quirky shop, and the most fantastic bakery – and all of it surrounded by magnificent peaks.
On top of that it’s snow sure, and as it’s not all that heard of, the slopes are fantastically empty. It is however well-known for its extreme free style skiing (and boarding) if that floats your boat, but rest assured there are plenty of slopes to keep skiers of all abilities happy.
The view from the lounge…
I found our home for the week online, and managed to book and pay for it before the recent currency hike (most unusual for my track record!). We also lucked in on the place itself, as it’s in a great central location, incredibly quiet and well equipped, and has the loveliest wood stove to return to at the end of each day – perfect for toe-defrosting (if you are frozen solid there’s a sauna in the basement too)…
If you are heading to Andermatt, do book lessons well in advance if you need them… There’s only one ski school and reassuringly lessons sell out quickly as they won’t risk putting masses of children in a group. I think fate might have played a part in it, but having forgotten to book, we ended up with a private instructor for the Small People for a couple of mornings. In the capable hands of their friendly (part-time lumberjack) expert they gained so much in (mother-scaring) confidence, they were able to master pretty much everything Mr R placed them at the top of for the rest of the week.
Are we bankrupt after a week in Switzerland? Surprisingly not. That could have something to do with not being phased by prices having lived in Copenhagen for a couple of years, but self-catering meant that we didn’t waste loads of money eating out all the time, we didn’t need to drive anywhere or spend money on public transport, and looking back, I bet we spent more money on cheap red wine in the concrete resorts of all those years ago.
PS. Andermatt also excels in fondues, friendly welcoming locals, sun-drenched terraces, empty slopes, ski lifts that are a pleasure, and the only dogs we saw all week were Saint Bernards. I am not joking. Good things come to those that wait (for at least 16 years…)…
Ooh – I LOVE LOVE LOVE this post! What an amazing place. Stuff of dreams! Worth the wait, clearly. I too was put off by the concrete “frites” jungles so congratulations on an amazing find! x
Thanks Katy! I highly recommend the place! :)
Oh this makes me crave to go away again – so pretty and the house looks awesome too!
Thanks so much Annie! :) x
And now you’ve got me craving fondue! Or raclette! I may give it a go next weekend :)
I have a recipe coming up! ;) Thanks Rachel!
Oh Emma, it looks perfect for a family ski holiday. I am adding to my wish list.
Before children we always went to busy, popular resorts and it has really put me off taking the children, but Andermatt looks wonderful. xx
I am completely with you on the busy slopes, horribly busy ski lifts etc. Put me off for a long long time! :D Thank you! xx
Wow, you did well! Cool apartment, and picture perfect place. My now rather faded skiing memories are more of the concrete jungle, cheap wine, cheese fondu competition sort of variety! Not pretty! :]
I should have had first choice on where we were going all those years ago I reckon! Thanks T! :)
Wow, it does look idylic and a sauna in the basement has got to be good! Mich x
Thanks Mich! (: x
OMG those snuggly chairs look divine! I still have sking on my bucket list but don’t like the cold! So not sure its really for me!
On a sunny day, I promise you you don’t feel the cold! :) Thanks Emma
To be honest after a number of visits to Basel via Zurich I couldn’t understand why people raved about Switzerland at all. Then I went to the Bundesland and understood. I don’t do ski, but wow, it looks like you fell into exactly the right spot. Just perfect.
Thank you KV. You would love the snow shoe walking here, I bet! :)
What a gorgeous apartment, Emma – that would suit me just fine. I clicked through to the link and there were a few on that page – yours was the second one. Just love those rugs.
You see how I get excited about the inside cosiness and less about the skiing? But so picture perfect, no wonder you were smitten.
Thanks so much Trish. You would love the area! :) x
Oh your photos are always exquisite – and that village certainly lives up to expectations / hopes / dreams! Please can you specify the country on your sojourns as I sometimes have to google where they are! This sounds so much more civilized than before but the cheap red wine in dodgy areas is a kind of rite of passage isn’t it? :)
You are completely right Anya, and I have amended the title to say exactly where it is! You are completely right about the rights of passage too! :D x
I adore your photos, they really transport me from rainy England to where you maybe on your travels. I’m especially loving the last photo, reminds me of something out of The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe.
Thanks so much! :)
Once again your photos and description make me want to just get in the car and go. I love skiing but havent done it for a few years. This is making me really want to get back out on the snow.
Fab post
Thanks so much T. I know you would absolutely love this part of the world! :) x
Brilliant! Good things do indeed come to those who wait. I almost (almost) want to go skiing! I have a soft spot for fondu and St.Bernard’s…
Two out of three ain’t bad! Thanks Sarah! :)