One of the things I love the most about living in Bavaria, is the ability to get in the car and escape somewhere else if the weather gets a bit too depressing. That and May. I love May here, we get five bank holidays in the month, which makes getting into the car and escaping somewhere else that much easier – and it means we can stay for slightly longer too…
On this occasion we chose Lake Garda, as we have only been to Como before, and it would be rude not to really…
Leaving directly after school on a Wednesday evening was deemed to be the most sensible idea. Four and a half hours later (and with a blinding headache from listening to The Hobbit – which might be the noisiest CD in the World) we reached The Lake (the biggest in Europe, did you know that?). Thankfully this time (not that we exactly planned it last time with Como), there was no need to go anywhere near the Spuglia pass or (Spewlia Pass as it’s now known in our house!), and we safely navigated our way to the tiny village of Tresnico where we were staying. The only sad part about the journey was that by the time we got there it was pitch black, and we missed the spectacular views of the Lake that must greet you on what must be one of the loveliest (and at times a little hair-raising) drives in the world. The twinkling boat lights were a good substitute though!
Quite often the nice thing about arriving somewhere late at night is that you are never sure what to expect the next day. The view exceeded all expectations however, and the apartment was particularly lovely. Tresnico is around a 20 minute drive from Salò itself, and within close proximity to the gorgeous towns of Maderno and Riviera Gardone. May is a great time of year to visit – too early for any summer crowds, and not overly hot, but still hot enough to feel like you’re on holiday! At times we felt like we had the place to ourselves, which was fine by me!
As you might expect for Italy, the food here is exceptional, and we enjoyed some great pizzas (and views of millionaire’s speedboats) over lunch at Tip Tap. By far my most favourite meal of our stay though was at Osteria Di Mezzo tucked away in the little winding back streets. There are lots of local dishes on the menu here, and they make good use of both regional produce and seasonal ingredients. You will find plenty of lake fish on the menu, and I would recommend the asparagus gnocchi for some of the lightest gnocchi in existence.
Before dinner though, may I suggest an aperitif or two at Bar Italia (it doesn’t have a website, it doesn’t need to advertise!)? THE place to be seen in town and right on the water’s edge. People wait ages for outside tables, but if you are a little more impatient (like me) and don’t mind being slightly further away from the madding crowd, take a seat inside instead. This is where I learned (by watching the incredibly deft barmaid) how to make a mean Aperol Spritz (the drink of choice in these southern parts!), and the exact measurements of another speciality – a Negroni (quite lethal, but nice, especially if you are partial to a Martini!).
We loved it in Garda, and could easily have spent a couple of weeks exploring this beautiful location, but this time three days had to suffice. I have posts lined up about the other specific places we visited, but in the meantime, a couple of further recommendations…
Where we stayed: Lake Garda Apartments – A really lovely light and breezy place which is modern, and incredibly well equipped. Plus it has just the most stunning views and a great pool ( not to mention my ultimate accessory – a washing machine (for yes, that is how sad I have become), because I just find it so depressing taking washing home). There are also plenty of toys and DVDs to keep small people occupied should the weather take a turn for the worse… Highly, highly recommended.
What you can’t miss: Artigiani Del Gusto (via Fantoni 58, 25087 Salò) – The best ice cream in the entire World, and I do not make this statement lightly. So overwhelmed was I by my panecotta gelato that I told them exactly how much I loved it, and the entire kitchen traipsed out to say thank you. I should have asked them for a job… Maybe next time?
My Mum loved Lake Garda, and I’ve often said I’d love to visit.
Congratulations on getting through to the BIBS finals! It is lovely when someone you vote for gets through, so pleased for you x
Thank you so much Mama S! Likewise! ;) I will bring the chocolate I owe you when I am over in June! xx Hope you get to visit Garda one day, I am sure you would love it! xx
Ah, this post makes me remember how much I love Italy. I went once with a friend and travelled around by train and it was just so delightful. I can’t wait to start taking my little one to all of these places and showing him the world.
Thank you Sian… You have much to look forward to travelling together! :)
So lovely to be able to get away like that…. five public holidays – how good is that? The night scene photo is so pretty.
Thank you. And yes, I definitely approve of the bank hols in May! :D
Thank you! And yes, I definitely approve of the bank hols! :D
I have never been to Lake Garda but now very much want to! :o) I will keep all these good tips and addresses… xx
PS: I LOVE Aperol Spritz, by the way, such a nice, summery drink. :o)
Isn’t it! Kind of reminds me of Pimms for a summer drink, but without the fruit! :)
Love the sound of Lake Garda, and all the things you managed to pack into your short stay. Keep thinking about asparagus gnocchi! Also sounds like a perfect time to visit – must get quite hectic in the summer. May is such a great month for trips anywhere really, and 5 bank holidays is pretty impressive! :)
Thank you! And a definite yes to May being a goid time of year to go….
wow that first picture makes me think of nuns for some reason its so pure and wholesome. the gelato shop would be heaven to visit not just for Sophie but i think i might have to face plant it.
Thanks Helen! :)
*sigh* I read through all of that nodding in agreement and your photos are STUNNING. I want to put my teletransporter bracelet on and go there now – meet you in Bar Italia for a Spritz at midday?
Thank you… See you there!! :)
Or was it Lausanne?
Somewhere else on our list! :)
This took me back to a couple of childhood holidays when we camped by the lakes in Switzerland – Garda, Como, Lucerne and Porlezza. Probably the best holidays we ever had.
Lots of beautiful areas there… athank you! :)
Lakes. Beautiful lakes. And yummy gelato. It doesn’t get much better than that.
You are so right… Thank you! :)
Oh now you’ve got me all nostalgic for Lake Garda. Even the night time picture reminds me of photos I took in Lazise. Oh and the ice cream too. Do you think this Aperol Spritz drink you keep mentioning ( and enticing me with) is the drink of choice in southern Austria too? Thinking of our summer hols.
Thanks Trish, and yes I think you might find it there! :)
Sounds like you had a brilliant time, looks like you had better weather than us and we went in June. My memory’s of Garda are rather damp!xxx
Thank you Spud… We were lucky with the weather…
Sounds like a lovely getaway – especially the ‘no crowds’ part! Have spent my entire week off (Buddha’s Birthday) househunting and it’s not been fun at all. Loved your comment about ‘The Hobbit’ – being so loud – we spent many an hour cringing to the battle scenes in the Narnia books, which are also pretty loud!
Funnily enough we had blinking Narnia next in line, but I vetoed it for Just William. Couldn’t cope with any more “serious listening”… I have been thinking of you and your house hunting. I have all my fingers crossed! :)