Tell most people here that you’ve been to Rothenburg Ob Der Tauber, and one of the first things they will say is “Oh the Christmas Market is amazing there” – and by all accounts it is supposed to be one of the best… Undoubtedly the stalls are full of the usual bewitching and waist line expanding goods, but to be honest I think they could get away with exclusively selling fridge magnets and people would still rave about it with a back drop like that!
If you can’t make it here in December, fear not! Big fans of the season of joy and goodwill will be pleased to hear that the festivities are not just limited to late November and December in this part of the world – Rothenburg is one of the few places that likes to trick you into thinking it’s Christmas all year around.
Let me start with snowballs, or should that be schneeballen? Not of the ice and snow (and usually tiny pebble) variety in this instance, but of fried dough – and quite the speciality of the region they are too… They come in around 50,000 different flavours (slight exaggeration!)! From the original (my favourite!) dusted in sugar and cinnamon – to the cream filled/chocolate coated “high-end” version. We had walked past a few bakeries selling them, but finally relented to the pleas at this particular place…
When Small Girl was very small, she had a vast selection of imaginary friends (we’ve had quite a few guests of this kind – some of them more troublesome than others), and as time has gone past, she has often wistfully wondered what became of her once loyal friends (having since discounted their original disappearance theory!), and whilst sadly we are not sure what “Dollar” is up to nowadays, it pleased her greatly to see that Diller is very successful, and quite the baker he has turned out to be…
Snowballs consumed and Christmas mood slightly reawakened, what else was there to do but visit the nearby Museum of Christmas? Yes, this did feel more than odd in the middle of May, but it isn’t huge and is (I think) worth the visit if you are interested in the history of such things. And this places covers the history of Christmas from the earliest days to modern times.
It was here that we learned about the meanings of some of our fondest (and often strangest) Christmas traditions. Did you know for example that tinsel harks back to the 16th century and was once made out of real silver? Or that Christmas tree lights were around at the turn of last century and were invented by someone who worked for Thomas Edison? It’s all here! We marvelled at the oldest artificial trees (that must have been impressive once upon a time) and witnessed how the first baubles were made. The smaller members of our party thanked their lucky stars that Father Christmas is a lot less frugal nowadays, and constantly asked their mother awkward questions about why she was saying “awww” alot, and looking a little misty eyed (no doubt helped by the choir singing nostalgic Christmas Carols in the background – they always make me cry!). It was kind of hard to explain why, but I just found something very touching about the festive hopes and dreams of generations past.
And if you are still in a Christmassy mood after your visit, you can always go downstairs to the enormous shop and take your pick from the masses of decorations – the beautiful, the traditional, and then the not so!…
I spoke to an assistant (busy adjusting the giant tree in the middle of the shop) and asked her whether it actually really felt like Christmas when December finally came around… She assured me that it did, but you really would have to love it to work here wouldn’t you?
Dillers Schneeballen, Hofbronnengasse 16, Rothenburg Ob Der Tauber (they have two more nearby!)
Deutches Weihnactsmuseum, Herngasse 1, 91541 Rothenburg Ob Der Tauber
Ting Dalton says
I want a snowball… now! I love Christmas, but it would definitely feel strange to walk around now! Although carols and baubles and the festive spirit would soon get me in the mood!
bavaria says
Thanks Ting, yep in that Christmas Museum especially if you closed your eyes, it could be the Season! :D
Michele {Malaysian Meanders} says
This is perfect for me. I’ve always wanted to visit a European Christmas Market, but it seems that summer is the time of year that I end up there. I didn’t realize that Christmas Markets would last that long. I would definitely be buying a snowball — perhaps one of each flavor I could find. They look huge! The museum seems like a good stop, too.
bavaria says
Thanks Michele, there are no markets out on the streets as such, Christmas is more a way of life here! :D
Funky Wellies says
Familiar sights, although the ones I know are not in Rothenburg ob der Tauber!
I will have to try one of these Schneeballen one day… xx
bavaria says
I think they are nice, but I am still not sure whether I could manage a whole one! Thank you! xx
Helloitsgemma says
Am not feeling Xmas in any other time than December. Like your Xmas facts. Tinsel really silver.
bavaria says
It was a strange feeling…. Thanks Gemma! :)
Trish says
It took me a whole to get to the end of this post as I was unable to move beyond the snowballs….
bavaria says
Hahaha… I think you would definitely approve of them Trish! :) x
A Patchwork Life says
would have thought I couldn’t do Christmas in May, but then I look at those huge snowballs (expecting a small sweet-sized ball…) and the twinkly lights, and imagine I probably could, quite easily, get swept up by it all!
Any Christmas Chillies, or just gherkins?? :) x
bavaria says
LOTS of Christmas chillies! Than you! :D x
Boo Roo and Tigger Too says
That’s it I have found my perfect job, I love Christmas and this place looks amazing!
bavaria says
I will get you a form next time I am there! :D Thank you x
becky says
Am in love with those gherkins
bavaria says
“Beautiful” aren’t they? :D
Nikki Thomas says
Those snowballs are amazing!! It is funny reading a post about Christmas at this time of year but it looks amazing
bavaria says
Thanks Nikki! :D
Ruth says
Haha, I SO Want one of those pickle Christmas tree decorations! They’re brilliant :) x
bavaria says
Can you imagine a whole tree in them? :D Thank you x
kellogsgville says
probably better to see it in May and appreciate it than when we are all ‘christmas market’ed out in December. Sounds lovely.
bavaria says
True enough! :D Thank you! :)
Amanda says
I didn’t think there was anyway I could feel the tingle of Christmas in May, but do you know what I did. Great post!
bavaria says
Thanks Amanda! :)
Rebecca says
Seriously shocked to come here and find you using the C word. The pictures are stunning and it looks so magical – hope you didn’t feel too Christmassy though. There are months and months to go!
bavaria says
I know, I’m sorry, I’m sorry! :D Thank you!
otilia says
Oh yes. A Christmas when is not that cold outside? I would love it! How cool are those decorations! Is that a cucumber shape i see?
bavaria says
Can’t be all bad can it? Yes, I believe they are gherkins! :D Thanks Otilia! :)
Helen The good life mum says
OMG my jaw has dropped and smashed my keyboard what a great thing to go and see and i must eat some schneeballen
bavaria says
They are quite good! :D Thanks Helen!
Emma says
Oh my gosh, what a wonderful place. I reckon I could work there, I love Christmas :-)
bavaria says
I think you might love it then… Thanks Emma! :)
nicole says
Hi Emma!
It’s so funny that there’s a Christmas Market all year around…I just immagine how much fun the small people have visiting the market!!!!I would love to try the schneeballen in sugar and cinnamon….yammy!
Kisses,
Nicole
bavaria says
Thank you Nicole! :) x
A Mum in London says
What a fantastic place, never heard of that place.
My toddler would love it there (he’s Father Christmas’ biggest fan).
And the snowballs look delicious (how many calories there?!!). Great post :)
bavaria says
I am sure he would absolutely love it then! Thank you! :)
Liz Burton says
Christmas all year round??! How awesome!
Not sure about those Christmas gherkin decos though – very odd!
bavaria says
Thanks Liz! They had a whole selection of foods! From Sushi to burgers, to these beauties! :D
Val says
Need to visit this beautiful town if only to freak out youngest son with the thought of a pickle decorated tree!
But I would definitely want to buy one of those Santas whilst eating a snowball!
bavaria says
Thanks Val! :) x
Kirsty says
I love Christmas but not sure if I could cope with it all year round. I love the idea of edible snowballs and would love to have a go at making something like that at Christmas time *makes mental note which I will no doubt forget*.
bavaria says
Thank you Kirsty! :) x
Sarah@The View From the Table says
I could get down with this in May! I love the gherkins :) We are working on our winter phase, including Christmas, at work now so it actually doesn’t seem so strange…
bavaria says
Must be right up your street at the moment then Sarah! Thank you! :)
older mum in a muddle says
It’s so out of context but I loved reading about Christmas in May, it felt very surreal. Interesting to find out that the original tinsel was made from silver….. those snowball things look awesome – are they kind of like giant doughnut balls; I love anything with cinnamon on. Great post (as always). And I really hope you make the finalists next Friday! X
bavaria says
The snowballs are more like fried biscuit dough, which sounds strange, but they are lighter than you expect! And thank you, I hope you do too xx
Donna @ Little Lilypad Co says
I love Christmas …. I would be happy to talk about it all year round!
Cinnamon and Sugar snowballs sound delicious!!
bavaria says
Thanks Donna! I did try sample quite a few, and the cinnamon and sugar were definitely my favourite! :D
Mammasaurus says
I am only going to forgive the use of the ‘C’ word because of the awesome snowballs (nom) and the freaky gherkin decorations!
bavaria says
Thanks Annie… Sorry about that! :D