Southern Germany’s Romantic Road (although I fail to see what’s romantic about it when you are travelling with children!) stretches 261 miles from Fussen to Wurzburg (or vice versa depending on which way you go!), and includes some famous beauties such as Neuschwanstein along the way (when I last saw that it was covered in scaffolding and not looking all that legendary – and then we had to rescue my Mother from a “ravine”! I hear the scaffolding’s gone now however, so we need to revisit!), as well as Schongau, Augsberg, and Landsberg (amongst many other places)…
Scour any guide-book on the route and you will find pages littered with adjectives such as “beautiful”, “stunning”, and “fairytale” which in particular gets bandied about a fair bit. For a place to be considered fairytale in my book, it must actually look like it comes from the pages of a Brothers Grimm or a Hans Christian Andersen tome, it shouldn’t be used if a place is just a little bit old and has a few gift shops… But, this place is exactly how “fairytale” should be depicted (despite there not being any real fairies in evidence) – it’s a word I think Rothenburg Ob Der Tauber might want to consider copyrighting.
This medieval town was once a stopping point on an important trade route, and its impressive walls are still the largest in Germany. Some say the name means “Red Fort above the (River) Tauber”, although there are others that say that the name comes from the masses of red roofs in the town… Thanks to the nifty restoration work, visitors can walk the length of the wall and admire them for themselves – at just over a mile and half long, it will afford you some pretty fabulous views!
Our drive there lured us through a main gate, then promptly spat us out on to a tiny cobbled street crowded with tourists (more on them in a minute). This had us panicking that we had taken a wrong turn (which wouldn’t be unusual) and were now driving up a one way street. If this happens to you, please don’t panic, it’s not one way – and there aren’t that many cars on these old cobbled streets anyway – most visitors to Rothenburg arrive by coach – this place is popular for its romantic road status, and for featuring in a good few films – Harry Potter, Brothers Grimm (see told you!) and that all time classic Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, to name but a few. If you are wondering why there’s an abundance of Japanese shops and signs here, it was also the setting for a popular Japanese animation – “Sugar – A Little Snow Fairy” by the way! You mustn’t let all this talk of hoards of tourists put you off visiting however, for that would be a real shame! Despite the high numbers of visitors during the day, hardly any of them stay the night, so come 6/7 o’clock you will have the entire place to yourself, which feels like a real treat and also makes it a Photographer’s dream!
We stayed a few minutes walk from the main square in the Hotel Klosterstuebel (circa 1534!). The staff helped Mr R find a parking space after our traumatic drive in, and showed us up to our very lovely light and spacious family room. I would give this place top points for the views alone (all medieval turrets and roofs on one side, and rolling hills on the other), but even if it didn’t have those, it would have been given full marks for the comfortable room and gorgeous new bathroom, the great staff and delectable breakfasts (which are a bargain at €7.50 per person – I reckon Small boy ate at least 8 times that each morning!) and the near enough perfect location…
Bags dumped, we set out to explore what we could before it got dark. Somehow we ended up walking the entire length of the city wall, so we definitely earned dinner that evening at the Reichkuechenmeister Hotel. This area is real wine country, and the Hotel’s restaurant serves a great selection alongside its huge seasonal menu. The name has remained the same for 800 years and means Master Chefs of the Empire (no pressure there then!), and indeed we dined like royalty on huge boards of Asparagus Flammkuchen (it’s spargel season in this part of the world at the moment) before making our way back for a really peaceful nights sleep. Our first impressions of Rothenburg Ob der Tauber were already incredibly favourable…
Hotel Restaurant Kloster-Stueble
Herrngasse 21, D-91541 Rothenburg ob der Tauber
Phone: +49 98 61/93 88 9 Email: hotel@klosterstueble.de (sleep score: 8/10)
Reichskuchenmeister Hotel,
Kirchplatz 8, 91541 Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Phone:+49 9861 9700 Email: (dinner score: 7/10)
I love little towns like these. It’s so adorable and must be fun to wander around on foot.
It was Adelina, thank you! :)
Thanks Adelina, it was! :)
I went to Bavaria back in December briefly but didn’t actually see this part – it is so beautiful with such charming architecture :)
Thank you Shikha! It is pretty! :)
Rothenburg ob der Tauber really looks like from a fairy-tale (BTW, love those descriptive names!). We should really try to visit Bavaria for itself, and not just drive through on our way to somewhere else. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Frank, yes it is a place to visit in its own right, and there are some stunning things to see here! :)
What a charming town and it does really look like it’s been ripped from the pages of fairy tale books. We didn’t make it to Rothenburg but had a taste of the Romantic Road during our Ludwig’s castles tour last summer. It’s such a beautiful area. I hope you make it back to Neuschwanstein soon. Scaffolding was gone as of last summer but still some construction. Although, you can probably go when it’s not inundated with tourists. Lucky you!
Thank you Mary, yes, we are lucky in that we get to visit when we want, Neuschwanstein always always has visitors though! :D
1534 you say, whooooooooooooweeeeee. I still find that type of history mind boggling for me. I think back to all of the years, all the memories created in that place, and its so amazing. Great place that I’d love to visit. Once again thanks for linking up with us for #SundayTraveler
It is mind-boggling isn’t it? And quite a history they have had here too! :) Thank you! :)
Even though places like this are tourist driven, there’s still such amazing architecture and sense of place with the food, art, signage and even the streets such amazing discoveries.
Thanks so much Noel! :)
I’ve yet to visit Germany and this add yet another reason for me to go ASAP. And btw, I lived in the UK for six months years back and you don’t have to convince me the food there is pretty darn good! I gained weight!
Thank you Ming! :)
I LOVE Rothenburg. I went seven years ago – I saw a photo of the place and decided that I needed to get there. I got there by train from Nuremburg and then caught the Europabus the next day, which goes from Frankfurt to Munich each day along the Romantic Road. Very touristy, yes, but I had a great time!
Thanks Caitlyn… I did love your travel words you hate post… Sometimes, just sometimes, touristy can be good! :D
I bought a travel brochure about the romantic road once. Is it worth doing?
Still remember that story of your mother and the ravine. Will she join you if you visit again?
I definitely think it is… There are few places on this planet that actually turn out to be how your mind’s eye expects, but this I think is one of them! :D Yes, she will, I will make her! x
There’s another for my bucket list LOL
Good good! :D
i really need to get out of this country and come visit that looks like a fantasy land
It is quite surreal, in a good way! Thanks Helen! :)
*swoons* What a gorgeous place…. how pretty and what fairy tale architecture. I’ll bet the residents are ever so proud of their little town… *swoons again*. X
Do you know, I think they might be! :) Thank you S xx
What a stunning place, it is like something out of a fairy tale!
Surreal isn’t it? Thank you Jane! :)
From my tours of that bit of Germany I remember places like this – how did they stay that way? Who made a pact when to not change anything???
Loved Granny in the ravine.
I have no idea how this stayed as well preserved as it has done… Pure luck I guess! Thanks Gemma. Yes, we can laugh about Granny now! :D x
I have a yearning for these sorts of fairytale towns in Europe. I can only think it comes from the fairystory books of my childhood. That would explain why I also have an underlying dread of something sinister around the next corner. Like I expect the child catcher to appear while we’re enjoying our Vienna shnitzel and anticipating the hot chocolate and gluehwein to follow.
Wiener shnitzel I think it should be.
I know exactly what you mean! Thank you R! :)
Actually, I have a post coming up in the next few days with something you might recognised that I think belonged to the child catcher! :D Thanks R! :)
I love Rothenburg ob der Tauber and have wonderfully fond memories of going with both my parents and with friends during university. Such a treat to see those lovely buildings again through your lovely photos…
Thank you so much Ms Caroline! :) x
Stunning. I love that photo of the wooden walk way.
And now I want to go. right now!
Thank you T… Tis a lovely place! :)
I love this. The architecture really reminds me of my dad’s hometown. Beautiful x
So many beautiful places here… Thanks Carolin! :) x
Sounds lovely, and another place I didn’t know about. Striking architecture – some of the buildings really do have that gingerbread house look about them. Great idea to stay and enjoy the town when all the hoards had gone! x
It was lovely, thank you T! :) x
Oh it’s adorable, goodness! What a pretty place. I love where I am, but posts like this do make me miss Europe a bit… All that lovely history and character xx
Thank you Ruth! :) xx
STUNNING, STUNNING pictures! Wow – looks amazing! And I’m so with you – in the same way the words “fun” and “run” should never be spoken together, “romance” and “family travel” just don’t go together. xx
I also really agree with the words fun and run not going together! :D Thanks Katy! :) xx
Beautiful, proper gingerbread fairytale stuff! Am intrigued as to the story of your Mum and the ravine now!
There’s a link in the post to the ominous day! :D There’s no way I am walking that path with her again! :D Thank you xx
I am loving the shape of the buildings – wish I was there. Can’t believe people leave so early.
I can’t believe it either, so many lovely places to stay too! Thanks Joy! :)
Neuschwanstein – this time without scaffolding – we must visit again! But definitely no woodland walk back to the car via the glass bottom bridge over a raging ravine!!!! x
You can walk the longer way around! :D xxx
Oh Emma, what a gorgeous looking town, just beautiful. I know I say it all the time, but I definitely need to come to see you :-)
You must, that would be lovely! Thanks Emma xx
I love historic towns with cobbled streets. Looks fabulous x
Thanks Donna! x
Just delightful
Thank you Becky! :)
Sounds absolutely idyllic. It truly does look like somewhere out of a fairy tale.
The photos of the red roofs are stunning.
I adore reading your adventures!
Thank you Liz! :) x
Totally giving out fairy tale vibes! Sending the link to your post to Sexy Hubby right now, suggesting a romantic week-end away… ;)
Would love to see Neuschwanstein too. xx
Oooh, you must stay at the hotel we stayed at then, you would love it! And on your way to see Neuschwantstein you can pop in to Munich too! :) xx
Both points taken! ;) xx
Good good! :)
Great travel post, it really looks so beautiful.
I love Medieval towns and their feel (I studied in Strasbourg) and this post reminded me of that, especially the cobbled streets combined with tourists hordes :)
Oh yes, I know which part of Strasbourg you are talking about! Thank you, glad you liked it! :) x
These are beautiful. I love German buildings. Especially the old styles like those in your pictures. You have got me wishing for another trip to DE.
Thanks Bianca! :)
Gorgeous photos. Elinor x
Thank you Elinor! :) x
I neeeeed a holiday and I want to go there *stamps feet and has a mini-diva huff*
Seriously beautiful looking place x
I was sceptical before we visited, I’ll be honest, but it is so pretty! Thanks Annie! :) x
I love this. A proper fairytale town, not a pretender.
Definitely definitely not a pretender! Thanks Louisa! :)