Parents be warned. If your friendly Milanese landlady shoves chocolates into the hands of your bambinos when you first arrive at your apartment for the week, do immediately check the contents, especially of those that your rather “obsessive about chocolate” toddler stuffs into his mouth before you can actually count how many he has digested. It wasn’t hard to guess later on that these particular chocolates were of the coffee variety (something confirmed to us by his big sister the next morning), when he refused to go to sleep until around 12.30am, a good few hours later. For anyone that actually knows the Toddler in real life, you will know that this is basically unheard of in a child that tends to be around 100 miles per hour during the day, but who sleeps a good solid 12 hours when his head does finally hit the pillow.
And this was how we were introduced to the wonderful neighbourhood of Navigli and its many night owls by the way. Named after the Naviglio Grande Canal, this district is well away from the main tourist hotels of the city, but gaining in popularity constantly thanks to its vibrant streets lined with plenty of decent bars and restaurants. Aperativi is the order of the evening, and the evenings carry on late into the night
We were in Milan for Easter (arriving on the Easter Saturday. If you also happen to be travelling over Easter Weekend, have no fear about everything being closed – everything is very much open for the entire weekend. In fact I am not sure Navigli sleeps at all!). This time of year seems to be when many students graduate in Milan, and as well as the beautiful laurel wreathes they wear (like crowns – much prettier than our mortar boards!), they have huge parties to celebrate – naturally! It’s probable then that you might not want to chose Navigli, or even Milan at all if you are after peace, tranquillity and a bit of serenity – especially at this time of year, but if you enjoy a frenetic, loud and vibrant city (notably this part of it) with lots of amazing food chucked in on top, then do consider booking a visit as soon as possible!
After a few hours of very much interrupted sleep on the Saturday night, we set out bright and early on Easter Sunday (after a last minute Easter Egg hunt around our small apartment (checking all the chocolate contents for coffee twice!)… We happily wandered without any agenda, soaking up some much needed Vitamin D (Spring had definitely not arrived in any form in England at that point!), appreciating the ancient scenery and the masses of magnolia blossom along the way (something that will always remind me of Milan now I think!)…
After an obligatory introduction to the magnificent Duomo some 20 minutes walk from our apartment, we set off down towards the Giardini Pubblici (I don’t think you need help translating that one!) to explore its acres of green space (it’s also home to the Natural History Museum), to make like a local on Easter Sunday. Here, as is typical elsewhere across the globe, Easter is celebrated by feasting and getting together with loved ones, but in Milan a picnic is often on the cards, and if the weather’s cooperating, I can’t think of a nicer place for that!
Those of you with very tiny train enthusiasts might be pleased to hear that along with a carousel and dodgems, there’s also a miniature train in the gardens that takes you on a trundling journey for a good 5 minutes or so. Our miniature train enthusiast enjoyed this hugely (accompanied by his big brother!), until he spotted the vintage models of Snow White and her bearded gnome friends, at which point he decided he would quite like to vacate the train immediately (he’s never been one for facial hair!). Luckily his brother managed to cling on to him and stop any premature disembarkation, but we all felt it necessary for a bit of calmness and maybe some sustenance afterwards, so we ventured across the park to Peperino Milano for some seriously good pizza before venturing on to the Citadel for more promenading (and gelato) afterwards.
Sforza Castle Citadel dates back to the 15th century, and is one of the largest in Europe. It’s been many things during its history, but today it houses many of Milan’s museums and galleries (it was home to many artists, including Leonardo Di Vinci who lived here for years) and quite incredible pieces of art including the The Last Supper. You absolutely have to book tickets to see this a good few months in advance by the way, but as the toddler doesn’t do quiet galleries just yet, we weren’t that sad about not seeing it this visit (or the roof of the Duomo. That’s being saved for next time too!)! All of our brood were happily entertained by the large herd of wild cats that live in and around the Citadel grounds, and having walked for miles (and still digesting quite a large lunch) we were more than happy to sit and relax and watch them torment each other for a while.
Then it was time to make our way back past a few ancient (many of them Roman) relics (as well as the more obvious examples, there are many window and door frames of yesterday incorporated into the buildings today – don’t forget to look up!), before making it back to Navigli.
Our first real day in Milan done, we all slept soundly that night, exhausted from our wanderings (and sleep deprivation), lulled to sleep by the sound of the ongoing graduation celebrations, and the constant beeps from the swarm of vespas outside. If you are going to be sleep deprived, Milan is as good a place as any I guess.
PS. For those of you who might be thinking what there is in Milan for your bambinos to see and do exactly, fear not, there’s more than enough to keep them happily entertained for a serious length of time!!!
scots2travel says
Milan’s Duomo is my favourite building in the world so far, escaping to the rooftop puts it above so many others. Stunning. Though coffee chocolates to a toddler is hilarious but harsh. #citytripping
Emma says
It really is very special isn’t it? No roof for us this time, but definitely next time! :) x
Tanja/The Red Phone Box travels says
looks lovely in the spring!:)
Emma says
It was a lovely time to visit with the blossom just out! Thanks Tanja! x
Sandra says
Your chocolate story made me laugh! Milan is one of my favorite cities and I can never get enough of it.
#CityTripping
Emma says
Thanks Sandra! (:
michelle twin mum says
I’ve never yet been to Italy but I’ve got many Italian friends so ti can’t be that far off. Milan looks lovely, you can tell by looking that it is Italy, the architecture is so iconic. What a nightmare with the coffee chocolate episode. Mich x
Emma says
Thanks Mich, it’s truly beautiful! :) x
Lorelle says
What a jam packed day, thanks for bringing back Milan memories. It’s a pretty special place. :)
Emma says
It really is! Thanks so much! :) x
Zena's Suitcase says
Fancy slipping the tot coffee chocolates. So glad it was just one night. It looks like you had an amazing day though, so many beautiful places to explore in Milan
Emma says
I don’t think she realised, but still :D Thank you, we had a great week in all. Plenty more to come! x
Katy says
I LOVE Milan, I visited many years ago and literally shopped until I dropped, I would love to return with the kids and see it with different eyes. My kids would love the miniature train ride too, and the chocolates! :)
Emma says
Oh you should definitely go back Katy! Despite what some people might think, it’s a great place to take kids, and so close to other stuff too! :) x
Claire at Tin Box Traveller says
Milan looks fantastic! Noted re the chocolates!!
Emma says
Thanks Claire! (:
Penny Alexander says
He he he, this made me smile so much, perfect capture of both Milan and travelling with kids. Lovely to read :)
Emma says
Thanks so much Penny x
Daisy - Dais Like These Family Travel Blog says
We loved Milan when we visited with the kids – I desperately want to go back! Your pictures of the blossom, especially in front of the Duomo are just lovely! Navigli sounds like a great base to explore the city, 20min walk from the Duomo isn’t too far at all.
Emma says
Thanks Daisy, we got the tram a lot, and the train, but mostly it was just nice to walk – especially as the sun was out! :D
Ting at MTM says
Oh no to coffee chocolates! I’ve always wondered if Milan would be suitable for youngsters – and you’ve just confirmed yes! It looks like a beautiful city especially the duomo…
Emma says
It really was good, thanks Ting! :)
Chloe: Picture Taker Memory Maker says
I’m so excited about our trip to Italy this summer! We’re not able to actually explore Milan sadly, but if the gorgeous architecture and beautiful gardens you’ve showcased are anything to go by, I might just be in heaven. Sounds like you had a fab time and it’s good to know there is plenty for the kiddos too.
Emma says
I know you are going to love it Chloe, it’s just beautiful! Thanks for your kind comments too!
Lisa (Travel Loving Family) says
Oh no to the coffee chocolates!!! What an absolutely stunning place. My boys would enjoy that miniature train ride too;) Hope next time you are in Milan you get some rest:)
Emma says
I will definitely make sure there’s no coffee chocolate consumption! :D Thanks Lisa! :D
Laura Dove says
Ohh wow it all looks amazing! We have never been to Italy despite this being somewhere I have really wanted to go! It all looks stunning and exactly as I imagined it would be!
Emma says
It’s one of my favourite countries, and we were so lucky to live with it on our doorstep for a long time! :) Thanks Laura!
Emma says
Oh my goodness, your chocolate story made me laugh. He must have been wired! I think I need these chocolates. What a gorgeous place to visit though. It looks so beautiful x
Emma says
He really was, and I couldn’t work out why for ages! :D Thanks Emma x
Kara says
Oh goodness, being sleep deprived is not good but what a stunning city. I love Italy and would love to explore some more of the country, maybe I will avoid the generous chocolate giving ladies though
Emma says
In my experience that’s quite hard to avoid! :D :D Thanks Kara! (:
Becky O'Haire says
Oh wow what a spectacular holiday. I’d love to visit Milan someday! The ancient combined with the beautiful blue skies and gorgeous trees makes one scenic place.
Emma says
Thanks so much Becky! :)
Jenny - TraveLynn Family says
Gorgeous photos!! We used to live 40mins north of Milan in our early twenties and would often pop in for gigs. We haven’t been back since and I’m desperate to take the boys back. The duomo was all covered in scaffolding when we were there and I’m yet to see it in its true glory. Thank you for bringing back some lovely memories.
Emma says
That must have been a great place to live! It’s still partially covered in scaffolding now, but only a relatively small part of it! :) x
Nell (Pigeon Pair and Me) says
I can imagine how painful the chocolate coffee episode must have been! But Milan looks every bit as beautiful as I remember it. I was only reminiscing with my Mum about our trip yesterday.
Emma says
Thanks Nell. We laugh about it now! I think it’s such an underrated Italian City, and secretly I am quite pleased about that as it makes it less bonkers to visit (at Easter anyway!) than many other Italian cities! :D x
Mudpie Fridays says
We have visited Italy several times but haven’t been to Milan although would love to. Hopefully one day we will be lucky enough to take the little ones xx
Emma says
Thank you! Yes, I would recommend it! :) xx
susanna says
Too funny about the chocolates! Milan sounds wonderful, I need to visit soon x
Emma says
You really must! Thanks Susanna! (: x
Nayna Kanabar says
What a beautiful city, I love all the architecture and buildings. There is so much to see and do . Its good to know that everything was open over Easter. I will keep this on mind.
Emma says
Thanks so much Nayna! :)
Sarah Christie says
Oh no coffee chocolates, although they are my faves I can only imagine the effect they have on little ones, I have never been to Milan but its up there on my Italian wish list. Love the title x
Emma says
Thanks Sarah. My favourites too, so I wish I had beaten him to it! :D x
Midlife Singlemum says
We were taken to see The Last Supper when we were kids – about 1972 I think. It was before it was restored. We all took one look at the faded and cracked wall and agreed that the copy in in the corridor at school was better. LOL.
The next time I was in Milan was when an flight from London to Tel Aviv had to make an emergency landing and we were put up in a hotel overnight until another plane could be sent for us. I spent a wonderfully unexpected morning walking around Milan – with no money – and just taking in the atmosphere. The snow-covered Alps from my bedroom window were an extra bonus, as was the great hotel breakfast.
I have a special fondness for Milan although I wouldn’t wish an emergency landing on anyone – it was quite scary for a few minutes.
Emma says
That did make me laugh about The Last Supper! How scary about your emergency landing though, I am not a great lover of flying anyway! Think that would have been me relocating to Milan right then and there! :D x
Laura - Dear Bear and Beany says
What a beautiful place and stunning building. That’s so funny about the coffee chocolates, this would be me, I love them!
Emma says
Me too, but thankfully they don’t have the same effect! :D
Hayley McLean says
Your photos are just stunning <3 I miss Italian Gelato! Ive never been to Milan though, it looks fantastic. I will be watching out for those coffee laced chocolates though, eeek haha x
Emma says
Thanks so much Hayley! (: x
Lucie from lucielovesit.com says
What an amazing post! I feel like I was there with you! I did wonder if the littles would be amused but it sounds,like they had a whale of a time!!! (Even when on coffee chocolates) haha xx
Emma says
We managed to pack a lot in to a week! :D Thanks so much Lucie! :)
Life in Lilac says
Milan is so beautiful, it is definitely going on my travel wish list. What was your favourite place?
Emma says
Thank you! Probably the Citadel, I would have loved to explore there more, but then the old town is really beautiful, and the Duomo breathtaking… It’s hard to choose! :D
Cathy (Mummytravels) says
Apart from a very short stay about 20 years ago, Milan has always rather passed me by as a destination to visit – I knew of the Duomo and Last Supper and the fashion heritage but had never really thought of it for families. Your Easter weekend sounds lovely and a gorgeous place to discover.
Emma says
I think a lot of people think like that! I know we had one person look down their nose at the choice of visiting Milan with kids, but as per usual they were wrong! :D x
Cathy (Mummytravels) says
And thanks for linking up with #citytripping
Emma says
Thank you for hosting! :) x
Mellissa Williams says
I actually won a trip to Milan a couple of years ago and loved it so much we went back last year. We really enjoyed the Leonardo Di Vinci museum when we went and thought the city was very underrated. It’s also a great place to visit on your way to Lake Maggiore which is stunning.
Emma says
I really wish we had made the effort to go to Lake Maggiore now. Next time! Thanks Melissa! :)
hannah wood says
Never been to this place but sure looks like a good place to visit with lots do see and do.
Emma says
It definitely is! Thanks Hannah! :)
Amy says
I love Milan! It is one of my favourite European cities. The Cathedral is absolutely stunning and there are some gorgeous parks to walk around. The canal is also an amazing place to go for dinner – so atmospheric. Love this post x
Emma says
Thanks Amy! It’s really underrated as a destination, and it shouldn’t be! :)