Forgive the tardiness of this post. A week containing bizarre news, several hours in the dentist’s chair (two things that are not connected in any way!) and trying to cobble together an Effie Trinket outfit (yes, I had to do some research as to exactly who she is!), suitable make up for a “dead footballer” (who turned out to be squeamish about fake blood so we had to spend longer washing it off straight away than we did putting it on!) and a last minute sewing machine baby Ghostbuster’s Slimer outfit triumph for Halloween day at school… With that lot going on, it doesn’t for a very organised blogger make…
But here we are, and here’s Regensburg in all its Autumn finery.
I cannot believe we haven’t made it here before, it’s only really an hour and a half from Munich after all. We have been close – visiting nearby Weltenburg (also really worth it!) and the “oldest brewery in the world” (I have found a few of those in Bavaria over the years!) a couple of times, but last weekend was the first time in our almost five year Bavarian History that we had a proper Regensburg visit.
Regensburg is Bavaria’s fourth largest city, and also one of Germany’s oldest at 2000 years old. Flanked by the Danube, and with it’s Gothic cathedral, medieval centre, Roman ruins and cobbled streets, not to mention ancient stone bridge (amongst many other attractions!), it enjoys a World Heritage Status. It was also relatively untouched by the War, so what you are looking at is mostly original
I loved the atmosphere here, it has a large student population and boasts over 500 bars, cafes and restaurants to suit almost every taste and pocket. It also has a shopping scene that rivals bigger cities in my honest opinion, and is, according to good friends one of Germany’s most beautiful Christmas Market destinations.
We arrived on a Saturday afternoon just in time for a quick (well needed) haircut for Small Boy (he must be in line for some kind of strange world record of “places I have had hair cuts across the globe”), followed by a detailed exploration of Regensburg’s city centre. We were also on a mission to find the Pilz Cafe – as, having seen my pictures from Marchenwald, an Instagram friend mentioned that Regensburg boasts a teeny tiny red and white cafe. Of course we had to find it…
We walked alongside the whirling Danube with its line of River Cruise boats (it’s a major destination on the Cruising the Danube Map!), and through the Villa Park and beyond, then through conker dotted residential streets, but to no avail. Finally, we had to resort to asking a friendly local to help guide us, which considering Mr R asked him where the giant red and white “schwamm” (sponge!!!!) was after a complete German failure, was pretty amazing he knew what on earth we were on about. Anyway, after a quick walk through yet another park with residents in golden clothing, there it was… None of us really minded that it turned out to be closed, and all agreed that it was a) quite possibly the cutest cafe we have ever seen, and b) that we were all now hungry…
We walked the loop almost back to where we began by the Danube and settled for a platter of sauerkraut topped with plenty of smokey Regensburger sausages, and a well deserved treacly dunkles (dark) bier at the Historiches Wurstkuchl. None of us minded sitting outside, despite the slight chill in the air. This has to be the best warming treat!
Afterwards, and just as the light was beginning to fade, we explored the older parts of the city with its cobbled streets, ornate buildings and traditional shops harking back to more refined times. Don’t miss the amazing chocolate shop opposite the Ratskeller, or indeed the ornate entrance to the Ratskeller itself with its carved doorway complete with ancient soldier about to chuck a rock at your head!
We had time for a quick Banh Xeoh (always my marker for a good Vietnamese) at a brand new teeny tiny Vietnamese Kitchen (on the road up from the Wurstkuchl) before indulging in a bag of freshly baked gingerbread for the journey home. You have to explore the food too if you are to get a good feeling for a place right?
And finally, taking a different route back to our car park, we discovered this huge chunk of preserved Roman Wall underneath it…
I absolutely loved Regensburg – you can’t beat a city with so many surprises around each corner… Don’t miss it during a Bavarian sojourn…
What a fun day of discoveries, I love how there’s as much history and traditional German as there is modern-day with the Vietnamese food, stumbling across ruins by a car park and hunting down cute cafes. I bet it’s a great time of year to see the city again in the run-up to Christmas too. Thanks for linking up with #citytripping
Thanks Cathy! :)
It’s such a mixture of things and I love that it looks like you could turn a corner and see so much history. You live near a really beautiful place!
Thank you Tas. There are so many gorgeous places here! :)
Regensburg is cursed. TWICE we have booked accommodation in the city and TWICE we have had to cancel last minute. I’m almost scared to try a third time in case we’re now on some sort of Regensburg blacklist… But if we ever do make it there, I will definitely hunt down the toadstool café (although I may try to check opening hours first :) ) Thanks for the post! #FarawayFiles and #CityTripping
I hope you make it, and I hope you find the (open!) toadstool cafe! Both are well worth the visit! :)
I have to admit to feeling the same as Katy when I saw the banh xeoh! Having just got back from VN all I want to do is eat Vietnamese food and I would have been in there like a shot! Other than that Regensburg looks lovely (very peaceful…) I think I’ve been there when I was a kid and living in Prague but I honestly can’t remember it (it’s prehistory!) #citytripping (and #farawayfiles!)
That is where I first got addicted to them!! Could always find decent Vietnamese in London, here not so much… Thank you! :)
beautiful town! #citytripping
Thank you! :)
I could really do with some of those sausages on sauerkraut right now! The Bavarians do Autumn/Winter comfort food so well. #citytripping
They really really do! :D Thanks Nell! (:
LOL at the rock chucker! You made me wonder which is really the oldest brewery in the world. But I guess it doesn’t really matter since I’m pretty sure they would all serve good beer. My stomach rumbled at the sauerkraut, though my kids would probably be like, “Ewww…” the way they did when I tried to feed them sauerkraut at a local German restaurant. #FarawayFiles
I think there are numerous “oldest breweries in the world” judging by my lengthy time in Bavaria! :D My two have kind of grown up with sauerkraut so they do love it. When I tried to give them English mushy peas recently they weren’t having any of that though! :D
I did miss Regensburg when I was in Bavaria – looks like I missed a treat. But I do remember those German sausages with very fond memories! #farawayfiles
Put it on your list Rosie, it’s worth a visit! :) x
The toadstool cafe looks so cute. A pity it was closed when you visited. Lovely photos… the fall colours in Regensburg looks so pretty. #FarawayFiles
Thanks very much Ahila! (:
Hey I live here!! Too bad we didn’t meet up! Hope you enjoyed Regensburg! And a small fun tip – That hat shop made the hat that Johnny Depp wore as the Mad Hatter in Alice in Wonderland! The hat is inside the shop! :) #FarawayFiles
And now I wish I had gone inside! Thanks Lolo, what a beautiful place to live! :)
Do you think it’s weird that the thing I loved most about your wonderful post about Regensburg was the picture of Banh Xeoh! I miss the great Vietnamese food we had on our doorstep in Australia. I love how you noticed the rock chucker of the Ratskeller. Thanks for joining us on #FarawayFiles – adding Regensburg to the German road trip list!
Thanks Katy. Believe me, it’s super hard to find a decent Banh Xeoh in this part of the world! :D
Another gorgeous city in Germany – how do they do it?! Love all your food recommendations – are you sure this wasn’t a week’s worth? ;-)
I had to look up Effie Trinket and I have to say you captured her brilliantly – hair and make-up spot on.
#farawayfiles
Not a weeks worth, but it was quite a lot… We did share everything though (apart from the gingerbread, I wasn’t sharing that! :D Thanks Trish! I was amazed her false eyelashes lasted the whole day! :D x
Regensburg sounds wonderful. I’ve been to Bavaria but didn’t make it to Regensburg. I guess I’ll have to plan a return trip to explore it.
Definitely put it on your list for next time! Thanks Allison! :)
What a fantastic day out! Regensburg looks gorgeous even without the wonderful Autumn colours. Glad you found the toadstool café in the end – I’m adding this to my must do list with the boys too! Thanks for linking up to #FarawayFiles
Thanks Clare! (:
Love when you uncover the unexpected! Those sausages look yummy and this town has to be charming at Christmas. Thanks for sharing, glad to have you part of #FarawayFiles again this week – cheers from Copenhagen, Erin
Thanks so much Erin. I keep trying to pop over to yours to reciprocate, but I am getting an error message… Will keep trying!
It looks so much like Zürich!! I saw the initial photo in my feed and thought you’d headed to Switzerland :) Looks and sounds lovely x
Sadly I have only ever driven through Zurich, we need to visit properly! Thanks Rachel! x
Oh gosh how amazing is that roman wall?
That whole place looks so atmospheric and well worth a visit
Thanks Fozia, it’s really worth a visit! There are loads of Roman relics throughout the town, so beautiful to spot! :)
What a shame about the café being closed. It looks like it should be in a theme park. Looks a great foodie place and full of history with its Roman walls.
Thanks Ness! (:
Oh that looks like a great place to visit and some amazing food to have too. Shame about the cute cafe being closed
Just means we will have to visit again! Thanks Jen! (: