I have visited a few surreal places in my time, Gaudi’s La Sagrada Familia for example, or the even stranger still Casa Batlló… But when it comes to other-worldly former residences, I think Il Vittoriale might take the biscuit…
Il Vittoriale is the former residence of the ultra-nationalist (and slightly eccentric) Italian writer, poet, and military figure – Gabriele D’Annunzio. This vast estate with its impressive lake views comes complete with amphitheatre, war museum (the Museo Della Guera), his former residence (The Priory), a huge circular Mausoleum (complete with white guard dog sculptures), and a great big battleship (a present from the Navy- the Light Cruiser Puglia) that takes pride of place in the middle of the landscape. There’s also a building containing another of D’Annunzio’s boats, a cafe, and an auditorium with a light aircraft hanging from the ceiling…
I imagine a visit to this place would be surreal in any event – how many places have you visited with Giant blue horses in the grounds, or bombs used as garden ornaments? And as for the boat!?… But, it seems that on this particular morning I was suffering a rather untoward allergic reaction to a hay fever tablet, which let’s just say “added” to the bizarreness of this visit. As he helpfully informed me afterwards, Mr R reckons it could have been because said tablet had been in the bottom of his wash bag for around four years, but it certainly made the entire experience even more “other-worldly” for me in in a mild labyrinthitis kind of way…
We started off in the amphitheatre, home to the Giant Blue horse, and site of many concerts, operas and ballets… We sat there for some time appreciating the lake views, whilst the Small People put on an impromptu performance or two to their own private audience of appreciative Father and Mother, who by this time was having mild hallucinations…
The Light Cruiser Puglia was also a favourite area to explore, and would have made a spectacular party venue in its heyday I should imagine… Just off from this are the tiered gardens complete with water feature, and a slightly odd folly featuring enormous bomb shells.
Unfortunately for us we visited on what must have been “National Student Il Vittoriale Visiting Day” and the queue for The Priory was lengthy at best. Tours take 25 minutes, and take place every ten minutes in Italian (no photography!). As it meant we would have had to wait for well over an hour to take our turn, we opted to visit the auditorium instead, which was a shame as I wanted to see the two special waiting rooms (one for people he liked, and the other for people he didn’t), and the coffin he used to lie and think in. Instead, I sat and enjoyed a small film about the place and its history, whilst the aeroplane D’Annunzio flew to drop propaganda leaflets on Vienna during World War I dangled overhead. Adjacent to this is the War Museum, containing many relics of D’Annunzio’s military life, from dusty uniforms to flags and medals…
Although I don’t actually remember taking half of the photographs I now have in my possession, I am grateful that they confirm that the various bizarre things I remember about it do actually exist… Apparently Il Vittoriale is one of the most visited Museums in Italy, and it’s certainly different! I would recommend buying a ticket to cover the entire park which costs around 16 Euros. I would also recommend doing a little research on Gabriele D’Annunzio before visiting perhaps? To know a little bit about this interesting man will certainly add to your visit. I would not however recommend taking any out of date medication beforehand…
Lovely article and photos. Brilliant award winning book by Lucy Hughes-Hallett – The Pike – gives you background to D’Annunzio and the Vittoriale.
Thanks Vincent, I will look at that! :)
How did I miss this last year? Looks amazing. Totally trippy, with or without fluff-covered allergy pills!
Haha, thanks Mary… I couldn’t have taken it in normal surroundings could I? It had to be here, with it’s massive boat, giant horse and bombs in the garden! :D Well well worth a visit though!
I remember reading about this place when we went to Lake Garda but, as we seemed to do very little on that holiday bar lazing by the pool and the lake, we didn’t visit. A good excuse to return, methinks!
You must, you must (although the pool and lake lazing sound good too!) :)
What an odd, fascinating place… with or without “funny” tablets! Would definitely love to go. xx
Odd, and fascinating… Completely true in both senses! Thank you! :) xx
Wow that looks like a pretty amazing place to visit – that blue horse looks surreal with or without medication, especially in front of the Lake. I am following your blog BTW – just love your writing and photos. :o).
Thanks so much, I do appreciate it! :)
Such incredible pictures x
Thank you Susan! Il Vitorriale did all the hard work for me! x :)
I love places like this–wacky and unconventional but very more-ish. Your photos do it justice, they’re fab! Shame about the students, but still cool that you visited the place.
Thank you Michelle, and very well worth visiting it is too! :)
wow looks like such a beautiful place to visit, your photos are amazing xx
Thanks so much Wendy! :) xx
Excellent write up, it was like revisiting again. I love this place and will never tire seeing it as I always find something new to wonder over
Aw thank you Mari, so glad to have brought back some happy memories for you! :)
Wow! Not remotely surprised it’s one of Italy’s most visited museums. Wonderful really that he had the means to make all the totally bizarre, off-the-wall things in his head a reality! Amazing pictures, shame you didn’t get into the house, but might have tipped you over the edge on your old meds! x
Thank you… I will definitely make it into the house at some point! :D x
This is as you say, a surreal experience! It is very popular with tourists and attracts bus loads of Italian school children. However, in the Italian school holidays which run from June to September, it is best to go early in the morning before the main tourists reach the park. It’s a pity you did not get to see inside the house as this is one of the most bizarre houses I have ever been in and well worth a visit. Hopefully next time, and yes, probably best viewed not on dodgy hay-fever tablets!!
I will go back to visit the house alone Janet, thank you! :)
It looks absolutely gorgeous – and I’ll bet there are some people out there who’ll think that the hayfever tablet out-of-body experience just added to the whole thing!
Thanks Caroline, it’s in a gorgeous setting too! So typical that it had to be there that it happened though, and very odd too! :D
What an amazing place. Surreal is exactly the right word.
Thank you… He certainly sounded like an interesting character! :D
Sounds very interesting! I will be asking hubby about it and maybe next time in Italy we will have to check it out!
It’s well worth a visit, thank you Sabrina! :)
I think a better title for this post would be ‘Drugged up in Garda’ ;-) What an odd place though. Have you ever been to the Boboli Gardens in Florence? That’s been my favourite so far.
Hahaha… Can you believe that? From one measly hayfever tablet? It was really really odd, a bit like the place, but really interesting at the same time! :D Thank you, Boboli Gardens sounds really interesting, I shall add it to my list! :D
oh wow! It looks amazing, your posts always make me want to travel more :-)
Thank you so much! :) x
Wow! What an amazing place. Fantastic pictures.
Thank you! It was interesting! :)
Thank you… Indeed it was! :D
Oh that really is a surreal place my favourite picture is that beautiful blue horse against the background of the countryside just lovely.
Brilliant place, we had hoped to visit it last year but ran out of time. Definitely on the to-do list and I think the out of date meds may have heightened your visit to your benefit!
Thank you sarah! It was definitely an odd day, but I did enjoy the place, you must try and make it there next time! :D