The journey up the side of Messavouno Mountain to reach the start of Ancient Thira is not for the faint hearted, especially if you’re walking. Thanks to the Frog, we could cut out the most gruelling part (seriously if you are doing the public transport thing, you might want to organise a taxi instead of using your feet – the walk up must eat the best part of the day, and most of your energy!) and as soon as we had parked and paid for tickets (costing around £3 each), full of energy we set off for the final part of the walk up where an ancient city waited…
The cliff side path to the very top affords amazing coastal views if you don’t have a problem with heights (or blinking steps) and the wild-flowers that surround the track are gorgeous, if not a little spiky at times (if none of that’s your cup of tea then you might enjoy the planes landing and taking off in the distant airport instead!)…
From here on in things just gets better, as you begin to stumble upon ruins dating back thousands of years. Keep an eye out for the detail on the very first building – where the walls are decorated with a lion, a dolphin and an eagle. The buildings beyond promise more still including the bones of private houses, a Roman Bath, the remnants of shops, and what must have been an impressive arena – I think it still is. If you look closely there’s still plenty of detail to savour despite many treasures having been removed to the safety of museums, or indeed plundered in earlier times. Small girl, as you can imagine was in her element. As was Small Boy, albeit for slightly different reasons. He reckons he spotted around 1,387,502 lizards. I would argue that there were actually 1,387,503 however! See – something for everyone!
The Lizard Spotter Advances…
Later at lunchtime we were fleeced down at Kamari Beach by a restaurant owner who had managed to paint a very convincing blue parking sign. Reminding me of a spider in wait, he jumped out to tell us that if we were parking there, we had to eat in his restaurant. Proof that even experienced travellers sometimes ignore the oldest tricks in the book! Anything for a quiet life when travelling with hot and bothered children in need of sustenance after a morning of historical discovery. And yes, it was most definitely the worst meal of our trip!
In need of a restful afternoon, Frog Car kindly took us to Lygeria back over in Oia, where the small people swam to their heart’s content, and we laughed our heads off at the cheek of the restaurant owner, whilst half dozing under the shade of the umbrellas at the water’s edge.
To make up for our disappointing culinary experience earlier that day, we drove down to Oia’s gorgeous Ahmoudi Bay (or rather we drove half way down and walked the rest of the way – I recommend you do the same so you don’t get stuck – the turning around option at the bottom is somewhat hair-raising!) for a sunset dinner. There are several restaurants in this picturesque bay, most of them offering fresh fish caught on its very doorstep. We decided upon the aptly named Ahmoudi Bay Restaurant for some of the freshest seafood I think I have ever had, followed by a plate of the tiniest crispest doughnuts smothered in honey and walnuts. Delicious. And just in time to watch the sun going down on another day.
I have to thank my Greek insiders – the wonderful Alexia from A Mum in London for her Ancient Greek Santorini tips without which would have had me having to listen to a lot of moaning from the Small Girl – and also my friend Leslie for her great food recommendations!
Now, would one of you mind translating this?
Emma says
ooh we had a lizard in our villa one morning in the laundry room. I squeeled like a baby much to the children’s laughter!
bavaria says
Haha… They can startle you can’t they? :D
Marissa | It's The Little Things says
Gorgeous photos! Hiking is so rewarding with the amazing views you get as you hike higher up.
bavaria says
Thanks Marissa! :)
SJ @ Chasing the Donkey says
I am seriously LOL’ing at the lizard count. So many lizards, so few moments :) I am loving that orange photo – it’s a keeper. So glad to see you back for #SundayTraveler
bavaria says
Thank you! And it’s good to be back. I have missed my little Sunday morning travel fix! x
Daidri | Thee Getaway Gal says
I can never get over how blue the water is in Santorini, it’s incredible pretty. I wish I could translate that writing for you but am afraid I can’t. Would it be fun though to have someone along that could? I loved your tips and am looking forward to reading more from A Mum in London’s posts.
bavaria says
Thanks Daidri! A friend’s husband managed to tell us that it says something about an Emperor and that was exciting enough for me! :D
Amy @ Amy and the Great World says
That view! The more I see of Santorini the more I know I have to go.
bavaria says
It is gorgeous! Thanks Amy! :)
otilia says
Wow such a beautiful place. I love the picture with the boats. I hope that one day I will visit Santorini too.
bavaria says
Thanks Otilia. I hope you do too x
Corinne says
Emma, I love exploring ruins. Don’t you just like to imagine what life was like in the agora? Great photos!
bavaria says
THanks so much Corinne! :)
Notmyyearoff says
Sounds a really amazing trip, besides the con artist restaurant guy with his parking sign. I think I’d be on the lookout for 1000 lizards if I went though :)
bavaria says
Thanks Tas. Yes, you have to laugh at his “creativity” for want of a better word! :D
Carolin says
Beautiful photos, Emma and what a shame about the bad restaurant. Glad you still had a fantastic day though. The ruins look amazing, although lizards or their legless friends would have me jumping and freaking out in 5 minute intervals :D The view however seems to make it worth it!
bavaria says
The view was most definitely worth it! Thanks Carolin! :) x
Emma says
Oh Emma, I want to go there. I am definitely adding Santorini to my list.
xx
bavaria says
I know you would love it! Thanks Emma x
kelloggsville says
We’ve been to Greece again this year. My 3rd time, families second. Lovely country.
bavaria says
Isn’t it? Lovely people, lovely food, lovely weather. What more can you want? :)
Trish - Mum's Gone to says
I missed the detail on the ruins the first time round – scrolled back and they popped into view!
Pity about your lunch: sometimes you have to take the easy option even when you know it’s not going to turn out right. We did that in Austria on our first night; we knew as soon as we entered the restaurant we had made a mistake but too awkward to turn round and run.
bavaria says
Thanks Trish. Years ago, this would have completely spoilt a day’s travelling for us, not anymore! I know what you mean about the detail on the ruins, so many people walked past and didn’t even notice them at first! :D xx
Grace says
Love the photo of Sam shouting GERONIMO!! x
bavaria says
Or Hironimosh?!?!? :D xxx
Leslie says
Santorini is my favorite place in the world. Translation is something about an emperor (he thinks Roman) says it’s not Ancient Greek though. He can’t make out some of the letters.
bavaria says
Wow Leslie, thank you! I will tell R, she will be pleased! :) xx