A post full of Copenhagen Eats from our anniversary weekend away, before the festive onslaught really begins, and people get a bit sick of the sight of anything food (I am still kicking myself for not getting around to writing up our Japan food adventures – I have plenty of weird and wonderful photos from that… Never too late I guess?!)…
As someone who has been known to book trips to locations entirely for the food alone, we obviously had a big list of places we had to visit during our whirlwind weekend, and a huge list of old favourite foods we had to eat from our time living in Copenhagen.
The UK is unusual in that despite a thriving restaurant scene, you can quite often get a table somewhere by just walking in. In places like Bavaria however, that’s generally not the case – you usually need to book if you want to eat somewhere specific, and in Copenhagen that’s even more the case (ESPECIALLY when the season of Julefrokost (Christmas lunches) takes over, towards the end of November typically)…
At the top of our must eat at again restaurant lists was a favourite of ours that is as popular now as it ever was. No, not NOMA – everyone thinks of that place when you mention Copenhagen don’t they (we loved our one meal there, but as we booked the trip relatively last minute, there would have been little chance of getting in. Although, if you do fancy going, I have plenty of friends who called and put their name on the waiting list that have been successful!)? As Restaurant Schønnemann first opened its doors in 1877, it’s been around a lot longer! When we booked (back in early October) we were already in last table territory – this place must be the King of Christmas Lunch bookings – but I managed to get something for 12.30. Given that our plane was due to land at 10.00am, I was worried that if we were slightly delayed we wouldn’t make it. Thankfully, the smørrebrød gods were smiling on us, and minutes after dropping our cases at our (pretty rubbish, won’t be gushing about The Square Copenhagen that’s for sure!) hotel, we found ourselves in a lovely packed restaurant surrounded by tables of cheery Danes celebrating Christmas over schnapps and delicious food. Although slightly bleary eyed thanks to our 3.30am start, it would have been rude to turn down the glass of beautiful Christmas Schnapps (there are 140 to choose from here by the way!) to start our meal.
At this time of year Danish Christmas Lunch is probably your best bet, but we opted for Schønnemann’s famous open sandwiches, as they are what we miss most.
Herrings first! Curried, and topped with half a perfectly cooked boiled egg, followed by the most delicious steak tartare served with rugbrød fried in butter, and a further plate of smørrebrød topped with the sweetest Greenlandian prawns (we shared everything!).
It turns out that the Christmas schnapps is stronger than you might imagine, as I discovered when I got back from the loo to find the normally super diligent Mr R (having not read the receipt!) had accidentally paid for a table of 9. Thankfully the mortified waiter realised before we did, and sorted it out straight away, but it still makes me laugh (and meant we had plenty of Danish cash that we had initially tried to avoid taking out, to spend in some of our favourite shops!!)…
We skipped pudding here as we couldn’t eat another thing, plus there were plenty of sweet Danish Christmas specialities we wanted to cram in over the weekend including Aebleskiver which we found that night at Tivoli served with decent gløgg (so much sweeter than gluhwein) that helped serve as a festive type of Central Heating on a bitterly cold night…
The only thing we didn’t manage to eat this trip was Ris A La Mande, the Danish festive rice pudding made with plenty of cream, and topped with cherry sauce. A little like the tokens in our Christmas pudd, whoever finds the lucky almond in their bowl gets to make that all important wish…
Breakfast bright and early the next morning had to be in the form of Wienerbrød. Obviously… A big slice of an old favourite (in my opinion the best Danish comes in the form of one long pastry that you indicate how many people you would like it cut for) along with a chocolate and poppy seed confection and something we often try and base our Danish Pastries on in the UK (except this one wasn’t a sad and soggy affair)!
According to my sources, the best places to buy Wienerbrød are Laekerbaer in Osterbro and Emmery’s (we used to go to the one in Hellerup A LOT. I will never forget the day I was so engrossed in chatting to my friend that I didn’t notice that my then 2 year old was in the window, about to take a massive bite out of a hanging Christmas Gingerbread decoration!!!). I still love Lakagehuset too, and you can find countless branches across the city…
As Sunday was our actual anniversary, to celebrate 14 years of married life, we had a table booked at Geist, just up the road from Nyhavn’s iconic coloured buildings, tucked away in a leafy green courtyard.
Geist is the slightly different ex baby of the enfant terrible of Danish Cooking Bo Bech. This article from Food and Wine Gazette describes why he felt he had to let it go… It’s still obviously much loved by him, and his influence is everywhere… As we had booked an early table, Geist was quite devoid of folk at first, unless, as the name suggests (Ghost!) we were surrounded by spectral company…
The menu is full of really different sounding dishes such as the Raw Norway Lobster with Hisbiscus and Yuzu above, or Leeks with Smoked Eels and Nasturtium… It’s suggested that you chose two to three dishes to make up a meal, and between us we enjoyed the raw lobster (which was almost ghost like in that it was quite hard to actually see, was delicious!), the black kale with fried egg and dill, Gravlax with chestnut bread, and the most bizarre looking but exquisitely dressed mountain of leaves topped with a raw oyster. We had one main each (we aren’t that greedy!), and I opted for the chicken wings topped with scallops and a lobster sauce, and Mr R had Turbot with the most beautiful fennel ravioli (that I pinched a couple of!)…
The wine suggestions were beautiful if not a little eye watering (this is Copenhagen, anywhere seems reasonable after living here!), and desserts of caramelised bread with vanilla ice cream, and burned milk ice cream with a beautiful crumble like accompaniment rounded everything off really nicely (and made me not want to eat again for the rest of this year and possibly the next!)…
A walk around Nyhavn and beyond to the water’s edge helped with the digestion process, so much so that on the way to the plane a few hours later, we had enough space for my favourite Lakagehuset treat Christianshavnertærte – a cake with a hazelnut base and a strawberry cream topping. Funny how Mr R didn’t fancy anything when we went in, but suddenly appeared back at the table with this with TWO forks… Oh well, it was our anniversary and all that… Here’s to the next 14 years of cake sharing!
I know you wrote this before Christmas but it’s certainly had me salivating at my computer so I’m certainly not sick of reading about food!
I can sense a lot of joy in your words as you re-engage with your old home via its cuisine. It all looks delicious and clever and top quality.
#citytripping
Thanks Trish. It was so lovely to go back. The ease of knowing a city because you lived there once, makes for a really laid back break! Thank you. xx
I really loved the trip I took to Copenhagen, but for whatever reason, the only thing I remember eating is walnut ice cream (which was incredible). These photos all look delicious. I feel like I should get up and have some breakfast now! #citytripping
Thanks so much Sara! Do you know I lived there for two years and I didn’t even try walnut icecream! :D Licorice yes! :D Thank you.
I am sending this post to my husband since he would love to read it! He is a fan of herring and tartare so, he is looking forward to a visit to Copenhagen. We only know about one place that serves Scandinavian food close to where we live and visit once in a while.
I am sure he would absolutely love his visit then! Thanks Ruth! :)
140 different kinds of schnapps! wow that’s mind boggling. I’m glad that you got to the lunch booking on time, I would have been so nervous the entire flight and driving over there!
Although I did chuckle at accidentally paying for a table of 9. That’s totally something I’d do after a shot of Christmas Schnapps! #CityTripping
Thanks Katherine! Yes, never drink Christmas schnapps BEFORE you eat lunch! :D
I have been thinking of going to Copenhagen and I’m a bit of a foodie so will bookmark this post! Do they have a cake culture too like most of Europe? #Citytripping
They really do. Apart from the wienerbrod (Danish pastries) they have so many gorgeous cakes and pastries. Put Conditori La Glace on your list too! :)
I went to Copenhagen on a business trip some years ago but as with all work trips I didn’t get a chance to see the city much. Your post really tempts me to go back. I too was victim to their schnapps!!
I think you would love it now Elinor, the food scene has moved on a lot, even since I lived there! :) x
I have actually been to Copenhagen, but it was only for a day (or about 6 hours haha), so I had just one meal in Nyhavn – it was a pork burger, and it was beautiful, but I really fancy that traditional rice pudding, now I’ve seen it! I’ll have to go back to Copenhagen just to try it! x
Oh you must Becca! Or you could make it? It’s not too difficult! Thank you! x
This is a great post. Copenhagen has an amazing food scene so it’s nice to hear of some places that are less well known.
A few local secrets here, especially Schonnemann! Thank you! (:
Happy anniversary, wishing you lots of happiness together. The trip sounds a gastronomical feast and perfect for anniversary celebrations.
Thanks so much Nayna! :) x
This food all looks SO good! It’s all plated so beautifully too. Yum!
Thanks Adriana! (:
It made me chuckle that your husband paid for the wrong table. Looks like a lovely place to eat though. I would love to visit Copenhagen one day
And me… After we got the money back! :D Thanks Kara! (: x
All that food has made me hungry…yum!
Thanks Lorelle! :)
Copenhagen looks such a lovely city. I’ll definitely be saving this for my own, eventual, trip there.
C x
Thanks Charli! I would really recommend it! (:
Wow, there’s some seriously imaginative food in Copenhagen. I love the look of that rice pudding with cherry but to be honest all of ths post made me want to book a flight there!
Thanks Nichola! I think Geist was probably the most imaginative restaurant I have been to in a while especially! :)
You sound like my kind of person, especially since you said that you have been known to book flights just for the food alone. I am a foodie so I am totally with you there. i have to say the cake is literally a masterpiece and you have captured Copenhagen beautifully x
Thanks so much Ana :D Yep, we have booked more than a few trips for food alone! :D x
Congratulations on your 14th anniversary, how amazing does that food look, I am in love with the sound of the dessert you had (not even going to try and spell it) but I want to try it!
Aw thanks Sarah! It’s really easy to make! :)
Ahhhh glad to read that you actually made the most of your two days freedom! x
Thanks to you Mum. Thanks so much. xxx
Copenhagen is a great foodie capital. I love the local cuisine plus all the innovation
Thanks Leona! (:
Mmmmm this is making my stomach rumble- my daughter was 18 months old when we were in Copenhagen so I really didn’t get to make the most of the food scene. We still managed to have some delicious meals along the way so would love to go back for more tastings… And will be using this as a guide when I do!
Thanks so much Cathy! (:
Thanks for linking up with #citytripping too
Thank you Cathy! (:
I love it when restaurants have lovely wine to pair with the food! This looks like it could be my future favourite!
Thanks Hannah! (: