I don’t like to rely solely on the main travel/eatery recommendation sites out there when exploring, I much prefer to opt for local (often more reliable, and often more interesting) recommendations instead. The bigger sites can after all often be unfairly manipulated by businesses, and it’s good to remember that what is seen as the epitome of cuisine/accommodation to one person/culture, can be another person’s nightmare… But sometimes, the well-known sites AND the local recommenders can get it right, as this post proves…
Having been exceptionally lucky with the weather for the first chunk of our Vipiteno trip (apart from when we were making our way there!) , we were able to forgive the weather on the last couple of days, when we woke up to thick cloud and torrential rain. Just a few degrees colder, and we might have seen substantial snow!
As we had spent the morning in our hotel pool (it’s equally empty at breakfast as it is of an evening during dinner service!) all of us were more than ready for lunch! We had already investigated various local eating recommendations in Vipiteno, and one that came at the very top of both local recommendations AND the big trip recommendation site that we hadn’t been to was Prantneralm… Not that you will find it in the town itself by the way – Alm means Mountain pasture after all!) – this place perches at a reasonably loft 1800 feet above sea level, and has to be the best kind of reward at the end of a vertical 3 hour hike if you are brave enough (maybe not a Hiking with Kids recommendation!). Or, if the weather is just one big damp cloud, it makes for a great destination at the end of quite an exciting drive (it’s also a stopping point in the middle of an extreme winter sledging trail should you be here at that time of year!)!
I will admit to almost chickening out when I heard the phrase “quite a lengthy off-road track” come out of Mr R’s mouth, but after a bit of consideration I figured that our four-wheel drive hire car could deal with it (I am not sure I would consider it in anything but, especially in the winter!!), so we decided to go for it, and I am so glad we did…
After leaving Vipiteno behind in our rear view mirror, and passing the most beautiful little round chapel, the road suddenly began to climb. We passed many a farm (watching out for chickens literally crossing the road!) and chocolate box alpine dwelling, when suddenly we left the tarmac behind us and found ourselves in forest territory slowly winding our way up the mountain…
There were plenty of thoughts running through my head at this point – all of them of a “I hope we don’t get stuck”, “I hope we don’t damage the car”, and “I hope we don’t fall off the side of this mountain”theme! I might have been overreacting slightly with that last one, but the cloud was exceptionally thick! Most of all I was hoping we wouldn’t meet anyone coming the other way, which thankfully we didn’t…
Eventually Pranternalm appeared mirage like close to the top, still completely shrouded by cloud, which would lift from time to time to give us a glimpse of a view that could only be described as heaven! Given that we felt like we were almost touching it, it wasn’t that far off really.
The Pranteralm is run by the genial Gogl family who welcome you in like one of their own. As we couldn’t really sit outside in the pouring rain (which was a real shame, because as well as boasting heavenly views, there’s a good playground and lots of animals to talk to including cows, horses, goats and a few rabbits too, not to mention the resident dogs!), we were made comfortable in the winter garden (conservatory) with the weather continually shape shifting outside (it made me think of The Magic Faraway Tree if anyone remembers that!) where we feasted on the many dishes we miss from our second home – including a kinder schnitzel for the toddler that probably could have fed all of us, a house speciality of the best local dumplings (one spinach, one beetroot and one cheese, all three delicious!), and sauerkraut for the small boy who was more than happy with his fix (he still prefers this to mushy peas. I am training him slowly!). Mr R and the Small Girl went for the more Italian side of the menu with a local ragu, and an autumnal butternut squash pasta. All of it home made, all of it delicious.
The Prantneralm isn’t just a refuelling point, it’s also a dairy – a little side line thanks to their alpine cows that graze the surrounding pastures. You can sample a good selection of home-made cheese here too, including the local Grey Cheese (Graukäse) which is really typical for this part of the world…
I will forever remember our lunch in the clouds and the little reminder that you sometimes need to leave the beaten track to find the most interesting places – whether that’s up a mountain or not, and also that perhaps sometimes the local recommendations AND the big travel advisory websites can be equally right too.
As an added bonus the view on the way down as good as it is up!… Highly recommended if you are in the area!
Prantneralm, 3949 Sterzing
Eisacktal – Wipptal – South Tyrol
info@prantneralm.com
Zena's Suitcase says
I can totally see why you were a little nervous about that route, but wasn’t it worth the trip. What a great location juts a shame about the weather as it would have been amazing to sit outside wouldn’t it
Emma says
I would love to go back in better weather! Thanks Zena! (: x
Scarlett Roitman says
This looks stunning, made all the more beautiful by the dramatic weather. I love The Magic Faraway Tree, so it must have been quite magical to remind you of that. #CULTUREDKIDS
Emma says
It really was magical! Thanks Scarlett! :)
Leona says
I like to find local eateries too! The views are stunning
Emma says
Thanks Leona. I need to go back on a clear day now too! :D
KAty Stern says
Sometimes it is definitely worth going off the beaten track!! It looks amazing, such a stunning view!
Emma says
Thanks Katy! (:
Nell (Pigeon Pair and Me) says
This looks and sounds incredible, but what a shame about the weather! I guess that’s beautiful mountains for you….they just won’t behave….and the shots are possibly all the better for being moody and cloudy. Gorgeous!
Emma says
Thanks so much Nell! (:
Erin Ek Rush says
Wow.. that view was worth the trouble! I am with you, I love finding off the beaten track places too.. it feels like a bigger adventure!
Emma says
Definitely! Thanks Erin! :) x
Megan - Truly Madly Kids says
Without the rain you wouldn’t get the clouds! Food looks delicious, I actually just salivated over the schnitzel! Thanks for linking to #culturedkids
Emma says
That’s so true! Thanks Megan x
Jenny -TraveLynn Family says
A good hearty lunch after a long hike always tastes better I reckon! And that schnitzel looks very tempting (even though I’m veggie!)
Emma says
Thanks Jenny! I definitely agree with food tasting better after a hike! :D x
Sarah says
What absolutely stunning views! I’ve never had food anywhere quite so beautiful, and the food does look amazing! So fancy!
Emma says
Thanks so much Sarah! :)
Catherine’s Cultural Wednesdays says
This looks stunning, dumplings, schnitzel, beer and a small helping of sauerkraut what could be finer! #CulturedKids
Emma says
One of my death row meals I reckon! :D Thanks Catherine! :)
Zenbabytravel says
I love lunches in the mountains after a long hike but still to attempt one with both cheeky monkeys! Your car conversations are hillariously similar to ours, but then it’s all good in the end (at least so far in 20+ years of wanderings )! Loving the sound of the dairy station in there and trying various local cheeses and I’m with your little one – sauerkraut not quite for us either! I’d be happily settling though for that huge schnitzel and beer ;) #CulturedKids
Emma says
Thank you. I have one child who considers himself to be more Bavarian than English so he’s definitely a sauerkraut fan! :D I am with you on the schnitzel and beer thing too though! :D
Corey | Fifi + Hop says
Sounds divine! I agree, it’s good to get off the beaten path and really see what’s out there. A meal in the clouds sounds, and looks, picture perfect..lovely photos! Thanks for linking up with #farawayfiles
Emma says
Thanks Corey! :)
laurasidestreet says
Ohh this dumplings sound fantastic – I love trying a good local dish and wow what an amazing place to stop and have a bite to eat, with a breath taking view to boot
Laura x
Emma says
It really has the best views. Thanks Laura! :)
Deborah Regen says
I love discovering places like this! Good homemade family style dishes made with fresh local ingredients. Sounds like a fun time despite the cloudy and wet weather. Enjoyed reading. #farawayfiles
Emma says
Thank you Deborah! :)
Hannah says
I love how scenic it all looks. Bet in the winter is looks awesome with snow
Emma says
I would love to see it in the snow! Thanks Hannah! :)
Rachael says
Wow, what a view! Makes the slightly nerve wracking drive all worth it, really! The food looks great too.
Emma says
Definitely worth the hair raising drive! :D Thanks Rachael! :)
Rhian westbury says
The view looks stunning, definitely worth the rough drive. I do like trying local places where possible x
Emma says
Me too. So much more interesting! :)
Anosa says
I am like you and always try to find local places myself than the usual recommendation. This sounds like an incredible place to spend time and enjoy food.
Emma says
Thanks Anosa! :)
Kacie says
Talk about a lovely view. That must have been such a memorable experience for you.
Emma says
It really was. Thanks Kacie! :)
LaaLaa says
A wonderful experience, shame about the rain but like you said you’ll always remember it and the homemade food – good touch
Emma says
Thanks so much! :)
Hayley Warren says
Wow, this looks like such an amazing view. I don’t think I’ve ever eaten anywhere so spectacular!
Emma says
It’s not an every day occurrence for me either! :D Thanks Hayley! :)