It’s around this time of year that I tend to dream about spas. All that Christmas indulgence combined with the general greyness of the UK currently (in terms of mood and weather) means I wouldn’t give too much thought about jumping on a plane for a week or so, in order to regain a bit of equilibrium in both my health and my “need of peace” departments.
Sud Tyrol is a region that always appeals. It has over 70 spas, all of them offering various ancient natural therapies, including slightly more unusual treatments such as hay baths that alpine farmers have sworn by for years. Whilst being covered in hay might not be your idea of a relaxing treat (quite typical of a day at a farm park with the Toddler for me), then lounging about in restorative thermal waters might appeal a little more, as might treatments with edelweiss and other curative properties found in local alpine produce such as honey and apples…
During our Vipeteno visit last year, we ventured over to Merano (not to be confused with Murano in Venice which is more therapeutic for its glass buying opportunities) for the day. At 3,335 metres above sea level, it sits in a perfect basin surrounded by alpine peaks and vineyards (the local wine is Meraner Leiten btw) and it’s FULL of spas and thermal pools (the Terme Merano has 25 pools alone!)…
Merano became uber famous as the ultimate health destination after becoming a favourite with Empress Sisi – wife of Emporer Franz Joseph of Austria, back in the 1800’s. She became a firm devotee thanks to its thermal waters and favourable climate that helped cure her ailing baby daughter.
The association with Sisi here remains, and a walk was created in her honour, retracing her steps from the town itself, through parks dedicated to her, and up to Schloss Trautsmansdorff where she resided whilst visiting. This walk is somewhere around 4km in length and wheel friendly if you happen to be there with a pushchair (or wheelchair obviously).
We didn’t have time to walk this on the day we visited, mostly because it took us ages to find a parking space (you would have thought I would have learned after Bolzano – let that be a warning to you! Arrive as early as you possibly can or risk raised stress levels all round)… But Merano (or Meran if you are German-speaking – at least half of the population speak German, and the other half Italian here!) is definitely worth any amount of parking stress, even if you aren’t stopping for a bit of a healthy respite, packed as it is with history and fabulous Art Nouveau architecture (the Kurhaus perched majestically on the promenade is a prime example)…
Our visit didn’t start off all that well what with the parking, and with (by now) three hangry children. Then followed a run in with the most miserable proprietor of a small trattoria – who was obviously interested in our money, but not in us actually being there (this place rates highly on that bespectacled owl travel review site by the way. Message me if you are visiting and want the name of it. I would mention it here, but as a believer in karma I will give the owner the benefit of the doubt. She could have just been having a seriously bad day!)… This turn of events all meant that having “run out of time”, we ended up settling for bratwurst in the town square, not wanting to risk one of our offspring imploding.
It’s funny, I have come across this kind of “can’t be bothered to serve you” attitude and general lack of enthusiasm (and friendliness) in places that receive more than the typical quota of “guests” before (yes Verona I am looking at you!). I suppose you can’t really blame the locals for that. It’s just that as their income tends to depend mostly on the money that these visitors bring, they might want to think a little more about that before the visitors decide to spend it elsewhere (on Bratwurst)…
ANYWAY, our unplanned town square picnic (complete with pigeon pretzel thief that almost tipped this Mother over the edge) position meant that we were at the beginning of one of the oldest shopping streets in this part of Europe. Laubengasse Alle is around 800 years old, and stretches uphill from the river, giving you a great view of the mountain ahead of you as you trudge up it. It’s lined with shops, restaurants and delis which all act as a good distraction…
As we trudged upwards, Merano struck me as a place with a split personality. Its South of the Alps position and favourable climate gives it a Mediterranean feel on a sunny day… Sit with an Aperol in one of the squares (which we did, the day got progressively better and better) and you could be in Tuscany. Turn a corner and the restaurant menus and buildings would have you believe you are in a bustling Austrian town…
I would actually really love to see Merano in the Winter (you know, right after Christmas and all that – hint hint Mr R!), I could gaze out at the mountain peaks from the warmth of a thermal pool, whilst he chucked himself down one at Meran 2000 the local ski resort…
Merano landmarks to look out for are the medieval city gates, St Nicholas’s church (with its distinctive sundial) and St Barbara’s chapel just behind. The Steinerner Steg (a medieval footbridge) is also reportedly worth inspecting, although slightly out-of-town, and of course there’s Trautsmannsdorff Castle.
We just happily meandered until we reached the promenade alongside the Kurhaus and admired the roaring River Passer. Then it was time to be very glad about being in Italy, as it was definitely time for gelato…
As we made our way back to the car for the drive back to Vipeteno, we all reflected that our trip to Merano had been great in the end after a somewhat bumpy start, but for me at least, the best was yet to come… (to be continued)…
lovely town!
It’s really pretty! Thanks Tanja! :)
Merano looks and sounds amazing. And a great mix of Italian and German. I’d not heard of this town before rwading your post but sounds worth a visit! #fearlessfamtrav
Thanks so much Cath! :)
What a beautiful town. I agree it would be wonderful to visit in winter. Pigeons are the same the world over! We had an ice-cream stolen by one recently…my son was seriously unimpressed. Thanks for linking up to #fearlessfamtrav.
Thanks Nicky! :)
Yes to Aperol whenever in Italy. I love the balance between two worlds here in Merano. And 800-year-old shopping streets are just mind blowing for this American living in Europe. Thanks for sharing this beautiful bratwurst and aperol colored corner of the world with #FarawayFiles. Cheers from Copenhagen.
Thanks Erin, no problem! :) x
Now I have heard of Merano. It’s the opening number to the musical Chess. If you haven’t heard the song, look it up and check the lyrics too – they match your description so well. And I bet you’ll be humming the tune for the rest of the day. :-) xx
#farawayfiles
I had absolutely no idea about that, how funny! Thanks Trish! xx
My grandparents used to visit there every year from Salzburg. I’ve never been, but reading your post makes me understand more why they went. #fearlessfamtrav
How lovely it was part of their history too! Thank you! :)
I’ve never heard of Merano before but it looks like such a beautiful place, the architecture is lovely and the views are amazing!
It’s so lovely. Thanks Sarah! :)
I’d never heard of Merano before, but it looks like an absolutely gorgeous place to visit :)
Louise x
Thanks Louise, it’s really pretty! :)
sounds like a bumpy start (how awful of that person btw!) but wow this place looks stunning! I’m desparate for a holiday somewhere soon
Thanks Bryanna, me too! :D
Looks fantastic, really like to visit once, this part of Germany is gorgeous.
It’s actually Italy, but looks pretty German as it was Austria once upon a time! Thank you! :)
Oh wow Merano looks amazing! It’s so pretty and your photos are just stunning. Shame about the pigeon though!!
It makes me laugh to think about it now though! :D Thanks Laura!
Just look at those views, such a beautiful part of the world
It really is. Thanks Kara! :)
I was born in the wrong age and wealth bracket. I should have been with the Victorian aristocracy who would go to a spa for the whole of January (and sometimes again in August) to get over the excesses of Christmas (and the summer season).
Oh me too, me too! :D Thanks R! :)
You had me at 70 spas and it just went on from there. This looks so beautiful and interesting to explore!
Thanks Jen x
Pigeons are cheeky the world over, aren’t they lol! This looks like a pretty place to just spend the day wandering – if you can get a car park spot that is! #FarawayFiles
Definitely! :D Thanks Keri! :)
I’m always intrigued by these towns on the edge of countries – it looks beautiful
They are very unique aren’t they? Thanks Leona! :)
What a stunning part of the world. I am glad it was a great trip despite the bumpy start
Thank you Mellissa, it’s really beautiful (and worth the bumpy start!) :)
Having an aperol in the square sounds lovely. I guess it’s just what you needed after dealing with hangry children!
I really need to find some hot springs here. We never went to the ones near Denver and I regret it! I’ve heard they have a neat building with swimming pools and soaking tubs that’s more like a greenhouse and caves with soaking pools.
That sounds amazing! I do love a hot spring! And an Aperol is always a good idea! Thanks Marina! :)
What a beautiful town, and I love that it has a split personality between Mediterranean and Austrian. Sorry you had that experience at the restaurant, that can put such a damper on a day.
Thank you Jenny! x
Merano looks so gorgeous. Aperols are so refreshing!
They really are! Thanks Charlotte! :)
A pigeon stole your pretzel?? Cheeky blighter! I’m glad the aperol made it all a little better. I do love these towns that straddle different countries in their characteristics. Merano sounds nice (and I’ll be in touch if we ever go, to find out the name of that trattoria!)
Even worse, a pigeon stole the TODDLER’s pretzel. It was the END of the world! :D Me too, such interesting history. Thanks so much Nell. x
This looks absolutely stunning! I have only started getting into travelling, but I will have to keep Merano in mind!
This part of the world is really worth exploring! Thanks Amy! :)