There seemed to be no end to Kyoto’s charm offensive. We spent the following morning exploring the vast grounds of Kinkakuji – the Golden Pavilion (thus called for obvious reasons), and apparently adored so much by one monk that he burned the original down – which does of course mean that this iconic building isn’t as old as it might seem. As lovely as it was, I think my preferred Kyoto temple was actually Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion – except it’s not) for its incredible gardens of the zen, moss and tiered variety. From the tiny croaking frogs perched at the edge of ancient pools oblivious to us passing, to the glossy ravens that outpaced us slightly in the branches of the cedars overhead. It all had quite an ethereal ambience. So much so I was half expecting to turn a corner and find a unicorn, but sadly it was not to be… The slightly surreal and dreamy feel to the afternoon was at risk of being completely destroyed shortly afterwards however when we got horribly lost, but thankfully we made it back to the Kabuki Theatre in time. Small Girl and I had an appointment to keep…
Eager to continue our quest to find out more about Kyoto’s famous residents, I had emailed Peter Mackintosh a few days beforehand. This lovely Canadian bear of a man has lived in Kyoto for almost 20 years, and is the font of all knowledge on the history and rituals of the Geisha way of life. Not only does he seem to know every single person in the entire city, but he’s something of an ace photographer too, and both Small Girl and I learned some good photography tips along the way.
I loved that we learned about stuff that we would have walked straight past had Peter not pointed it out, such as the Maiko’s school timetables – packed full of music and dance lessons, and the tiny wooden orange Torii symbols hung strategically to ward off peeing dogs… It wasn’t too long before he noticed a few locals hanging about paparazzi style outside an okiya, a sure sign apparently that a Geisha was about to leave for an appointment. And sure enough, a few minutes later an ornate creature appeared in all her finery. The whole ensemble costs thousands of pounds, and must weigh a ton, but it looks amazing. I thought The Small Girl’s eyes might pop out of her head, much to the Geisha’s amusement. I got Peter to ask whether she minded if I took I picture or two, and she nodded her approval – but as I didn’t want to feel like I was hounding her, I only took a couple.
We went on to spot a few more all on their way to get ready for the evening, but no others in costume and make up – at the time a little disappointing to the Eight Year old, but we did go on to learn a lot more about Kyoto and its heritage. I suggest that you drop Peter a line should you be visiting the area – he’s a busy guy though I warn you now, but it’s worth asking him isn’t it?!
Heads full of facts, we met the boys for dinner. And afterwards tired from a day of walking, we got a cab back to the hotel. I definitely think Sod’s Law had a part to play in what happened next, as it soon became apparent that our hotel appeared to be hosting some sort of Geisha convention, there were dozens of them!! Anyway, it made for a memorable day, and the Eight Year old is now torn between a career choice of Vet or Geisha when she’s older.
I won’t just remember Kyoto for that either. Tempted by the beautifully drawn map in our hotel room, we turfed everyone out of bed just after sunrise the next day for a visit to the Imperial Palace Gardens, before it was time to bid this beautiful city farewell… The advantage of this was not only to evade the oppressive energy sapping heat, but the tranquility of it, and apart from a few tai chi devotees and the odd dog walker, we had this serene and beautiful place to ourselves.
Following the line of the shallow (and empty) moat was great fun for Small boy who was busy talking about dragons and imperial warriors. Obviously at a good bit in his story, he wobbled a bit, lost his balance and for the briefest of seconds touched the palace wall. And then the alarm started. The loudest alarm I think I might have ever heard. Clouds of birds flew into the air, and any and all peace was utterly demolished. It turns out that at the end of the “moat” there’s a tiny black box containing a laser, and if you cross that laser… If you were in Kyoto that morning and you were trying to have a lie in, then I sincerely apologise…
Next stop Fuji… (we are nearing the end of the trip, honest!)
I am so glad I stumbled across your blog, I’m hopefully going to Japan next year and Kyoto is one of my main places to go, I am so fascinated by Geisha’s as well, so thanks for the link to Peter’s website! =] It looks like you had such a lovely time, I’m so excited to go my self!
And thank you for your lovely comment! You will absolutely LOVE Kyoto! Please do let me know if you need any other tips on anything! :)
OMG Emma, you sooooo need to write a book about your travels! I would sooooo buy it! How amazing to see a Geisha girl on her way to work, fabulous! What an experience you are having! Please write that book! x
Aw thank you. It’s taken me this long to write about our Japan trip. I imagine I might be at least 85 by the time I finished a book about it! :D xx
Another fabulous, fascinating read – makes me want to go! Great too to have such a knowledgeable guide, Mr Mackintosh sounds like a real character. Will be catching up on your posts properly when I’m back in my own space! :)x
Aw thank you, glad you enjoyed reading it! Hope you are all having a good break! :) x
What a fascinating trip. I’ve never been to Japan. Now I want to visit Kyoto!
Kyoto was probably my favourite of all the places we visited. Thank you Susanna! :)
I love the whole history behind the Geishas. Need to read all about them again now. Great post.
Thank you Rachel! :)
I cannot even imagine what is what like to see a Geisha in-person!
Thanks Leslie! It was definitely other worldy! There’s a great BBC documentary on the life of a Geisha on YouTube if you are interested…
This looks amazing!
Thanks Andrea! :)
Beautiful photos. Amazing you also caught sight (and photos) of a Geisha.
We were really lucky. Thanks Kriss! :)
This was such a fascinating read! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for taking the time to reard it, and for commenting Carin!
Fascinating post, full of interesting tidbits of information. It’s not going on too long at all: just nice bite-sized posts accompanied by your gorgeous photos. The best way to blog about travel I think. I still have half a dozen Austria posts up my sleeve too!
Why thank you, you are too kind! Looking forward to more of your Austria posts, even though you didn’t visit Mushroom Mountain!!!!!
You got your perfect Geisha picture – and natural too, not posed. Beautiful. Really enjoying these Kyoto posts, can’t wait for Fuji now. By the way, if there was a laser to be found, we’d have made that discovery too!
I am glad it’s not just us then! Thank you, Fuji coming up! :D
Wow what a really fascinating and interesting place. I wonder how oh long it must take for a Geisha to get completely ready, must be ages! Hope Fuji is just as interesting. The first half of where I work is called “Fuji..” :)
Thank you. I think it must take quite a while, and I know that parts of it are so heavy that they employ people to help! Where do you work??
Company called Fujitsu :)
Aha, it all makes sense now! :)
wow the Geishas make up is amazing i gona have to tie my husband down and make him look at you blog as i so want to go to Japan. Talking about hubbies you should get him to guest blog for you a post about taking pics :) i bet he is so interesting
I was thinking about Mr R doing a guest post at some point, but it would probably about food, not photography! :D
Brilliant!! I want to go even more now. I love the car window photo!!xx
Thank you, she thought R was very sweet, she was laughing at her waving in that pic! :D
What an amazing story with beautiful photographs – how romantic to dream of becoming a Geisha in preference to a Princess that most little girls dream of! xx
Thanks Mum. I think her princess phase lasted about a week! :D
Fascinating, love the geisha ladies.
Thank you Gemma! (:
Such an interesting read, the series on Japan! Love the photograph of the geisha through the glass. What perfect timing – you being there just then :)
Thanks Pia. It is going on a bit though isn’t it? Had hoped to have it all down by now, but haven’t had the time! Nearly there! :D
Fabulous. That is all.
You are kind. Thank you :)