In order to join in with Mari’s fabulous Time Traveller linky, I thought we would go back in time to our previous country, and one of my favourite trips we took while we lived there – to Bornholm…
For those of you unacquainted, Bornholm is a small island in the middle of the Baltic sea, famous for its round churches, hand-blown glass, local produce, and of course – smoked herring! From Denmark, you get there by driving to Sweden and taking a short ferry trip, before technically arriving back in Denmark again. Along with Skagen, it’s a place I really recommend should you spend any significant length of time there…
The original version of this post was constructed from the veranda of our compact but cute summer house, looking out to sea, and contemplating the fact that the world was supposedly going to end the next day. Thankfully finding ourselves still very much alive the following morning, we popped up the road to The Hammerhus (apparently the largest castle ruin in Northern Europe)…
As you might imagine for such a ruin, it has a gruesome history, but I like to think that life back then was made more bearable by the vast amounts of daily beer rations…
I would also recommend a walk around the base of the Hammerhus, which is spectacular (although quite demanding in parts)… When we visited, the ground was covered in a carpet of wild garlic, which not only looked beautiful, but seemed to please Bornholm’s elusive “laughing frogs” the sound of which was quite deafening (Denmark not only has the “happiest people”, but the happiest amphibians it seems!)…
Smoke Houses are the main point of refreshment on the island, and of course Smoked Herring is the traditional order of the day… Being near Gudshejm, we had to order “Sol over Gudhjem”, a local Smorrebrod of smoked herring on rugbrod, served with radish, chopped onion and topped with a raw egg yolk; quite appetising compared to the surrounding school trip’s packed lunches, which seemed to consist of whole smoked herrings with rugbrod, pork fat and salt, but they were all tucking in!
Svaneke was probably our favourite town – famous for its chicken pooping contents (where a grid is drawn on the ground and locals take bets as to where a chicken will poop first) which we didn’t see unfortunately(!). Its winding roads are full of beautiful half-timbered houses, now home to many independent shops and restaurants specialising in the local produce of which the islanders are so proud. There’s also a brewery which serves great food alongside it’s home-made beers – I highly recommend the chocolate stout poured over a very decent vanilla ice cream for pud.
There are hundreds of ancient stone carvings dotted about the island too – carved directly into huge granite rocks, some of them date back thousands of years. They are definitely worth seeking out, and even the Small People found them intriguing (although they did want to know whether the man’s boat sank because he was “slightly over-weight”)… The drawings have been painted red mainly to stop people from standing on them, but to be honest they would be quite hard to see otherwise…
Together with the round churches and the Knights Templar myths surrounding them, the drawings and the ancient ruins, Bornholm is quite a mystical place at times. Speaking of mystical, I think I will always remember Bornholm for the thousands of Hares that roam the land (my absolute favourite creature)… Thinking I was in with a chance of getting an amazing photo, I chanced upon a sleeping hare and crept as close as I possibly could without disturbing it. It was so well camouflaged, I edged closer and closer, until…
I fell into something else extremely well camouflaged, a huge ditch (much to the amusement of my family waiting in the car!)… This was not quite the photograph I had been hoping for….
Bornholm, you are beautiful, and I would be really happy to visit again one day…
Mari says
Where do I start? With you falling in the ditch, the laughing frogs or the beautiful island?
What a fabulous place to visit and the weather was obviously good for you as the pictures are stunning.
Thanks so much for linking up with #TimeTraveller
Emma says
Thanks so much Mari. xxx
Kate , Baby Routes says
There is something so serene and perfect about that boat in the first picture. What an idyllic, secluded spot. Would love to explore Denmark sometime – looks so very beautiful and outdoorsy.
Emma says
Thanks so much Kate. It has lots of beautiful places! :)
Trish says
What a fab post, Emma – lots of gorgeous detail and funny stuff to keep me amused too.
I keep saying I will join in Mari’s linky – I don’t know if I’m coming or going at the moment.
Emma says
You’ve had a busy time of it recently, congrats on a successful show! :)
Sarah Ebner says
I’d like to visit too, and also to hear those laughing frogs!! It’s lovely going back in time with Mari’s time traveller!
Emma says
Thanks so much Sarah! :)
Eline @ Pasta & Patchwork says
ooh I am making all kinds of useful notes here – 1. Must book a trip to Bornholm as soon as things have settled down post-move; 2. Must remember not to fall into a ditch on said trip…
Emma says
You must. You will love it! Skagen is well worth a visit too… Thanks Eline! :)
Aly says
Well, I’ve never heard of chicken pooping contests before.At least it was a ditch and not animal droppings you landed in.Have you not got a FB page any more? I wanted to share this post and give a link page to your page.
Emma says
I have never had an FB page Aly, just a personal one. Might do over the summer when I finish work. We shall see! Thanks very much though! :)
chickenruby says
I love how they’ve painted the ancient drawings red so you can find them easily
Emma says
Thanks S! :) Yes, it definitely helped to find them! :)
Mammasaurus says
As always I come here and I end up wanting to visit somewhere new! Love the round church – just beautiful!
That last shot made me chuckle – I had exactly the same thing going on with robins all Winter long. Who knows maybe there’s be a whole post dedicated to robin fails soon ;)
Emma says
The ditch was a bit of a shock… The churches are gorgeous aren’t they? And full of intrigue and mystery… Bornholm is one of those places I could quite happily spend the whole summer! :)
Donna @ Little Lilypad Co says
This looks a beautiful place to visit.
I have never been to Denmark or Sweden …. maybe I should look to expand our minds when choosing future destinations!
Emma says
Thanks Donna! I can recommend lots of places in both when you go! :)
Phoebe @ Lou Messugo says
I’d love to visit some of the islands off Denmark and Sweden, I have some Danish friends whose parents live on one and they are always saying how beautiful it is. Thanks for showing us this little tranquil corner of the world, sorry you fell in the ditch!!!
Emma says
They do have some gorgeous places… You should go and visit them! Thank you, that kind of thing is quite typical of my life! :D
Nikki Thomas says
Ha ha that hare story did make me chuckle and is totally the sort of thing that would happen to me. What a gorgeous place, I had never heard of it before but it sounds absolutely fascinating. I think I would give the chicken pooping competition a miss though
Emma says
Thank you Nikki! Yes, wasn’t overly sad that we missed the chicken pooping! :D
Otilia says
Just pinned this, I would love to visit Denmark one day
Emma says
Thanks Otilia, they have some of the most beautiful beaches! :)
Cass@frugalfamily says
Beautiful photos – What a lovely area to visit. I’m very jealous of your travels ;-)
Emma says
Thank you Cass. Denmark is very doable from the UK, you can even get a ferry there! :)
Midlife Singlemum says
I love everything about this post except the shrimps. If I had something that looked like an insect on my plate I would freak out.
Emma says
I know a few people who think the same thing! Thanks Rachel! :)
Stephanie says
It looks idyllic – especially that first picture and the round church. Hope the ditch wasn’t too humiliating :) #timetraveller
Emma says
I am used to that kind of thing happening! Thanks Stephanie! :)