It makes perfect sense to me – even more so if the place we happen to be visiting is slightly touristy – to do a guided tour with a native. Someone who has lived in a place all their lives, knows it inside out, and can show you beneath the (often superficial) surface of their popular home. We did this in Rome with Nicole, a true Roman where we explored deep under the city, and it made our trip completely unforgettable. I also did this in Sarajevo, and learned so much more than I would have done otherwise…
It was over another five egg breakfast that I suggested that we might think about doing the same thing in Český Krumlov… Whilst being presented with yet another (by now not so surprise) chocolate pancake, I asked our friendly hosts whether they could recommend anyone. They quickly put their efficiency super powers to the test and less than half an hour later we were met by local Guide Šárka Šimečková directly outside the front door of our Pension…
I cannot recommend this lady enough if guided tours are your cup of tea, as she introduced us to her home properly, and let us in on many a Český Krumlov secret. Descriptions of life in Bohemia both past and present were brought to life in the 2.5 hours we spent with her, both in and around the town (she also reassured me that the river rafting that everyone in the group apart from the fat lady (me) were to embark on later that afternoon, was perfectly safe and quite quite tame)…
Minutiae on buildings we would otherwise have missed were pointed out, and she gave us a real insight into the past residents of some of Český Krumlov’s most interesting buildings. The ancient alchemists for example, with its depiction of the ten ages of man painted near its rooftop, something we had all walked past countless times beforehand without noticing…
The Small people lapped it all up, as did the rest of us. What I couldn’t get quite get over for someone of a similar age to myself, was the insight into Šárka’s own life growing up here, little things we completely took for granted at the time – she told us how her father registered for his very first car after the disintegration of the Soviet Union, waited months and months for it, and risked losing it to someone else had he turned up a minute late to pick it up…
Šárka also took us around the castle grounds, pointing out the real bears in the moat (bet they would have enjoyed the boiled eggs in the bottom of my handbag!) and bringing to life the families that had owned the castle, and lived here over the years (it’s well worth a peak inside by the way, tours can be organised in the ticket office, are quite reasonable, and are actually the only way you can visit. Just don’t go on a bank holiday as the groups are huge, and it can be quite stressful (especially if you have selective hearing, like some members of our party)).
And later still, Šárka saved our bacon by giving us directions to the Krčma Markéta, the restaurant that we had booked for dinner that evening. Tucked away behind the castle grounds, we never would have found it otherwise…
Having bade our farewells, and fitting in an hours rafting (check out Maleček Rafting, it’s a worthwhile experience, the kids LOVED it!) we followed her directions and made our way to the restaurant for an evening spent by candlelight. Here the food is mostly cooked over an open fire, and we spent a great evening dining on grilled meat and the best baked potatoes (another craving), while the children were kept quiet for ages creating countless shadow puppets. There’s not such a great choice for vegetarians, but the rest of the food is good, and the selection of local beers is extensive.
Do get in touch with Šárka if you are thinking about visiting Cesky Krumlov, you will learn so much (plus her food and drink recommendations are great too). And do make a booking at Krčma Markéta , for an evening of great food, a really unusual atmosphere (it was lighter outside than it was in when we left), and a host with a wicked sense of humour…
Šárka Šimečková – email: s.simeckova@gmail.com (a two and a half hour tour cost us 50 Euros, which was well worth it)…
Taking a tour with a native sounds like a good way to get to know a place. I love your pictures!
Glad you like the pictures, thanks so much Diana! :)
Such a great tip – remember thinking that when I read your Rome post. Definitely something I’ll look into, if we ever go anywhere!! Still waiting…
Oh fingers crossed! Thanks T! :) x
The restaurant tips are the very best ones in my book, to know where the locals go is priceless.
What a fascinating place, I love all the murals on the buildings and that tower is stunning.
Thanks so much for linking up to Time Traveller.
Thanks Mari xx
Ha ha your comment about vegetarian food made me smile. I visited Cesky Krumlov when I was 20, and decided to give up on my vegetarianism for my month of interrailing – it was so hard to find decent meat-free food! I loved the place, though. Such a fascinating history, both recent and longer ago. This post is really informative and interesting – brings it all back.
Thanks so much Nell. It’s a great place isn’t it? :)
i love these types of guided tours, esp when in a town when you can go back and revisit places after the tour
That’s why I like them from time to time too, especially when they are as informative as this! Thank you! (:
It sounds so great, I love finding restaurants off the beaten track, great photos Emma they feel give a feel for the atmosphere xx
Thanks so much Sarah! Could have done with a little more sun perhaps! :D xx
Sounds like you found a gem in Sarka. I can see how you got under the skin of Cesky Krumlov with her but I’m always wary of guided tours with kids as they can be a disaster. It’s good to hear that your children enjoyed it too. Gorgeous photos (especially the 6th one, of the castle tower framed by bare trees, so striking.)
She was brilliant. We have been so lucky with the couple of guided tours we have done with the kids, both guides have made the tour really child friendly always slipping in bits that completely appeal to them. I am also lucky in that my two are Horrible History addicts, so they do love a bit of history! :D And thanks for the photo comment Phoebe, much appreciated! :)
Thanks for your guided tour, of your guided tour! Sounds absolutely amazing and I love your photographs. xx
Thanks so much V! :) xx
What a wonderful guided tour, I’m loving your beautiful photographs as always
Thank you so much! (:
oh that all sounds marvellous!
Thanks Becky! :)
What a great way to see a city and really get the most out of it. Tbh, I’ve always shied away from organized, guided tours in the past but doing it this way, with a personal, local guide, makes perfect sense and seems really good value at that price actually. x
With a local is the only way to go I reckon. I can’t stand the huge tour groups where you follow someone just spouting stuff out of a guidebook, it reminds me of sheep! :D
Really enjoying these posts Emma. I am also a fan of taking tours with local guides, it’s the best way to quickly get the measure of a place. X
Definitely! Thanks Sarah! :)
I remember that about Czechia, everything had meat in it – every vegetable soup even. There was very little salad and street food was all deep fried. I guess that’s what they needed in the cold north in the old days when local food traditions were established.
I went to Prague for the first time, and it’s unrecognisable in terms of the food you can get today! My friend survived this particular meal with a melted Camembert, salad and baked potatoes! :D
What a perfect idea to have a local guide like this – to have that extra knowledge to make everything come to life. Far better than a guide book. I always ask the locals where to go for grub! Your pictures and storytelling are, as always, outstanding :)
So much better than a guide book! Thanks so much Anya, you are too kind! :) x