And it is only now some two weeks later, that I finally get around to writing about my trip to Sarajevo… There are no excuses, I just wanted to find the time to do it justice, as it really is one of the most interesting places I have visited of late…
As we passed the Communist era tower blocks on the way into town from the airport (with still white knuckles after what was perhaps the most violently bumpy flight I have so far experienced – thank you combination of mountains and wild weather!), it was hard to know what to expect of this City, so famous for its turbulent past… The guide books and blogs on modern-day Sarajevo are few and far between, so I put it down to it being one of those places that needs to personally tell you its story. It does…
A kind of cross between Prague and Istanbul – that’s the conclusion my friend and I came to after a few hours spent in this incredible place. “Istanbul” would be the old quarter at the top of the city, a place that has existed for centuries with a multitude of faiths living alongside each other. It must be one of the few places on earth with mosques, various Christian churches and a synagogue all co-existing within a few hundred metres… And it’s from this labyrinth of Ottoman bazaars, small workshops, restaurants and coffee houses that the road widens and it gradually changes into “Prague”, just beyond the place where they say East kisses West (marked by a floor carving in front of the entrance to the largest Bazaar), here larger bohemian buildings filled with modern shops begin to appear. This feeling continues onwards down passed the Sacred Heart Cathedral (whose Papal visit back in 1997 encouraged many visitors that it was now safe to return), passed the memorial to the Soldiers of WWII, and beyond to the leafy sanctuary of the City Park… Except of course that there aren’t many bullet holes or that much mortar damage to the walls of Prague…
Our hotel was perfectly located a few minutes walk away from the Old Town, with the kindest staff who couldn’t do enough to help, so keen were they that we enjoyed their city. We had a huge two bedroom suite at a bargain price, which came with large sitting room, a kitchenette, and a strange bathroom with a wall perhaps fashioned from a conservatory! Breakfast was served by two motherly ladies who would look at us disapprovingly if they felt we hadn’t consumed enough carbs for the day ahead…
As if to welcome us on that first afternoon, the sun came out and we sat in one of the many cafés enjoying a well deserved beer (much-needed after that flight!) soaking it all up. After a late lunch of traditional Ćevapi (minced meat kebabs), stuffed into what I can only describe as chargrilled cloud bread and served with a salad (plus around three chopped onions!), we took to the streets to see what we could find…
First stop was the ancient Jewish Museum, built in 1581 and still a practising synagogue. As the only guests on this occasion, we spent a while exploring its fascinating history. It’s here that I took my Window in Sarajevo photograph for those of you that have asked by the way…
Afterwards, and with history appetites not yet sated, it didn’t take long to find the River Miljaka on which the city was founded… Here we found the ominous plaque that marks the spot where world events took a sinister turn, after the murder of Archduke Ferdinand, his wife Sophia and unborn child. Unsurprisingly this is a bit of a magnet on the tourist trail, but it’s worth having a look inside the tiny but informative Museum Sarajevo (dedicated to these events) directly next door. Do not say “I have just seen something written in German” in a surprised tone in here unless you want to look like a complete idiot. I did in fact mean that I was surprised that not all of the artefacts of the era are in German (or rather Austrian)…
One of the things about travelling with a friend who’s a bit of a fitness fanatic (to put it mildly) (and who thinks nothing of doing things like arranging to meet with the organiser of the Sarajevo Marathon for a leisurely 12km run before breakfast), is that I perhaps walked up a lot more hills than I would have done otherwise. But, as Sarajevo lies in a natural bowl, and is therefore surrounded by hills she could possibly be forgiven for this… But I was grateful for the motivation at least that first afternoon when we walked through Baščaršija Square, beyond the imposing drinking fountain (whose waters, should you sample them promise a return visit!), and up through a tiny cobbled street where a colourful tea shop (with equally colourful host in flowing robes) stands. We decided to pass up the opportunity to take tea with an American University Professor trying to impress his young female charges, and instead carried on up and beyond until we reached a point with the most fabulous views over the city, albeit surrounded by a sea of white gravestones – a heartbreaking reminder of the terrible happenings of the early nineties. As you might expect, there are more than a few sobering moments when visiting Sarajevo, and this was one of them.
From this amazing viewpoint my energetic friend made me walk a few kilometres more to the opposite end of the city as Friday Prayers drew to an end, and the city began to celebrate the start of the weekend by meeting friends in restaurants and coffee shops, and over games of giant chess in the city’s squares.
And as dusk gave way to darkness, and the smell of grilled meat pervaded the city, we gave our aching feet a well deserved rest, and rebuilt energy reserves with a couple of beers in the old Market Square, before rounding off the evening as the locals do, with a couple of stark black Bosnian Coffees (once we had watched those around us prepare it first!) accompanied by various local sweetmeats. I for one couldn’t wait for day two…
Am fascinated, Sarajevo is a city I don’t know enough about. I’ve been waiting for this post and yet it has taken me ages to get back here and read it possible and read it properly. It’s been lovely taking time to really look at the photos and take in your words.
Thank you lovely Gemma! :) xx
I can’t get the headstones out of my mind, such a terrible shame that had to happen but you’ve written beautifully, I was almost there with you.
I wonder if you had a learner pilot on that flight?
Thank you… I am not sure about the pilot, but it was pretty petrifying!! :D
Wow what a fabulously well written piece. I felt like I was there with you. I really want to go now, I think I would find it absolutely fascinating and just a touch delicious too :)
Thank you very much! :) x
Very atmospheric post. I have yet to make it to Sarajevo! xx
You really must one day. Thank you! :) x
Wow, this definitely goes onto my list of places to go once the kids are either old enough to appreciate it – or old enough to be left behind so I can.
Thanks Vanessa… Either or, both would be really good! But by yourself would probably be more restful! :D
Thanks Vanessa… Either or, both would be really good! But by yourself would probably be more restful! :D
It looks an absolutely amazing place to visit and that breakfast, eeek!
Thank you Alison! (:
What a treat this post was, Emma. And what a treat the trip must’ve been! The best way to see a place is to walk its streets, and because you did just that, the writings alive with so much of its character. I felt like I walked with you :)
Thanks so much Pia… I am so glad you felt like that, It’s what I hoped it would be like to read! :) Part 2 should be finished later today sometime! :) x
How lovely to read a first hand report about this amazing place I hope your blog will entice more visitors to Sarajavo – a place I would so love to visit – can’t wait for the next part and more photographs. x
Thanks Mum, it is such an interesting, and very welcoming place…
Wow, your travel companion sounds like a real piece of work. Maybe you will get lucky and she will take up smoking before your next trip. That will slow her down…
Hahahahahaha…. No, she was very cool…. And her smoke? Never! :D
Sounds fascinating and you knit together its past and present so well. The picture your words and photos paint just make me want to go! My travel wish list has got a lot longer since I started reading your blog :)
Thank you very much, I am so glad! :)
What a wonderful post – you really took me on a guided tour…. what a rich and diverse city (and yes, the atrocities if the early nineties were horrendous). Was licking my lips at those sweat meats.
Thank you so much… Really glad it has helped people envisage what it’s like today! Still working on part 2 and there’s a photo essay for part 3! You will be sick of the sight of it all soon! :)
Looks like a really interesting place to visit. One for the list. Many thanks for your beautifully written blog! I really must try the coffee and sweeties!
And thanks for your lovely comment Jan! :)
It looks amazing and as I carb lover, I would be in absolute heaven :-) Looking forward to part zwei.
Plenty of carbs to be had there! You would love it! Danke! :)
A very evocative piece, Emma.
Don’t apologise for taking a couple of weeks to write up a post. I always let the experiences of a visit settle in my mind before I decide how I want to write about them.
Thanks Trish… It’s been a hectic couple of weeks!
Wow amazing to see so many religions coexisting so peacefully. I don’t think I ever realised it was like that. A cross between Istanbul and Prague sound fantastic and so filled with culture. You make me want to go there :)
It is incredible place… Go if you get the chance! Thank you!