I have so many Japan posts to write up when we get home (and which I will undoubtedly bore you to death with soon enough!), but in the meantime, here’s a post on how to Survive your First Japanese Onsen. I wrote it on the Shinkansen from Kyoto to Tokyo yesterday, it was a three-hour journey and the train had lulled everyone else to sleep!…
Make no bones about it, you have to be naked to experience a real Japanese Onsen (perhaps the most famous spa experience of them all, practised for thousands of years in Japan). You might have seen from previous posts, that I am 100% English when it comes to nakedness en mass, but I also can’t bear the thought of missing out on something that’s a huge part of life in Japan while we are here. So, during our stay in Izu (more on that later!), I decided to take the plunge(!!) There are lots of rules and regulations as soon as you step through that Onsen door, so I thought I would talk you through a few pointers on what to do and (and what definitely not to do) on your first authentic (and what should be uber relaxing) Onsen experience.
- As with quite a few Japanese buildings, outdoor shoes must be left outside, leave them at the door, or in the little cubby holes provided.
- There’s usually a section to leave your towels, and yukata (cotton dressing gown traditionally worn in the spas here) and then there’s nothing for it – it’s time to take a deep breath and de-robe. For those of you having a panic attack at the thought, it’s not all bad – you do get provided with a small hand sized towel to take in with you. I will tell you what that’s for in a minute!
- Do try to ignore the old lady in the corner drying her hair, who finds it slightly amusing that this is your first visit… Locate the Onsen door and half pray there’s nobody else in there (most are separated into male and female spas too by the way). In my case I could breathe a sigh of relief as it was completely empty!…
- Head to the row of little plastic stools with bowls propped on them, Sit on one, and get scrubbing, making use of all the posh products available (at this particular one anyway!). Those of us with smallish children at home should at this point luxuriate in the knowledge that even though you are in a kind of bathroom environment, there is absolutely no fear of someone bashing on the door and screaming at you to hurry up because they need the toilet. There are obviously no toilets in this bit anyway….
- Once you have used the washing up bowl or shower head to completely de-bubble (this is another important law of the Onsen – on your own head be it should you enter with the tiniest of suds about your person), you are now free to enter the beautifully warm thermal waters.
- Feeling brave, you might find yourself tempted by the outdoor spa (hoping that on the distant opposite sea there are no fishermen with binoculars) but as it’s night-time the chances are you will soon become prey for a cloud of mosquitoes. Try not to look nakedly inelegant (even though (as it occurred to me afterwards) there was nobody else about!) whilst keeping a firm suck on that stomach as you make a quick exit, opting for the safety of the inside Onsen instead.
- It’s now time to completely relax in the health giving waters until you turn completely red and can hear your heart pounding in your head. And that little hand towel I mentioned earlier? It has a variety of different purposes, it can serve as a wash cloth, a modesty protector and by the looks of things a hat. Just make sure you don’t pick up anyone else’s by accident at the side of the spa – this is a big faux pas. Another couple of things:- even if you are backpacking and haven’t seen a launderette for weeks, do not let the thought even cross your mind that this might be a good place to get a bit of washing done, these waters are almost sacred and you will probably be banned from every Onsen for life. Make sure you don’t accidentally splash anyone either!
And that’s it. You have survived your first real Onsen Experience. It’s time to have a quick shower and head for the safety of that big fluffy towel!
And, do you know towards the end, a whole host of other ladies came in and not one of them paid the slightest bit of attention to me or anyone else, so you shouldn’t worry about that either. It still felt good putting that Yukata back on though (by the way do make sure that you do it up with the left hand side on top, the other way is traditionally used for dressing the dead!) and when I got back to the room I realised I could hardly breathe I had tied the obi knot so tightly, but I did feel relaxed and quite healthy afterwards! So should you find yourself in Japan, be brave and give the Onsen a try!
Demonstrating the Yukata whilst waiting to go out!
So glad you enjoyed it. The onsen and Japan! Looking forward to lots more beautiful shots. x
It was amazing… Such a fantastic county! Thank you! xxxx
Great post, Emma, this is just the sort of travel experience I might have grave doubts about but know it makes a good read!
I have a vision of you sitting in the buff with a flannel on your head – I’m not sure I want it in my mind for much longer.
Brought back memories of Iceland, the Blue Lagoon and the scary female attendants ensuring you have scrubbed properly.
Quite an experience Trish I can tell you! Thank you x
Wow! that sounds complicated and frankly not massively relaxing.
It was incredibly relaxing for around 5 minutes of it anyway! :D x
Sounds amazing. I’d never heard of this, but would love to try this. Hubby has been to Japan and would love to go back.
You must visit one day Erica, it is beautiful! Thank you :)
Wish I could have read this years ago! We stayed one night at an Onsen but we were a bit wimpish and chose one that had private baths too so we didn’t have to brave the nakedness thing!
Now that sounds perfect! Thanks Rebecca! :)
Just read this entire post out loud to MrL and we had such a good laugh, because this sounds EXACTLY like the jimjibangs here in Korea – right down to the postage-stamp-sized towels! MrL actually goes to them quite often with his Korean cycling teammates (typical Saturday=ride 150km, stop for lunch and soju, finish up at the jimjibang.) Here in Korea you can also opt for a good loofah rubdown by an ajumma (middle-aged lady) which (from what I’ve heard – never done this part) takes off the first 25 or so layers of your epidermis. Main difference here seems to be that you are issued pajama-type top and drawstring pants (Koreans love a uniform) instead of a robe. The part about the shoes actually gave me pause – after 2 years here, I probably would have forgotten to include that detail – it is such a part of life now for me that I bet I wouldn’t have even noticed it!
Aw thank you! It was definitely something I won’t forget in a hurry! Will make it to Korea one day, I will try and go with Mr R on one of his business trips and then we can meet up and overdoes on Kimchi! :D x
I would DEFINITELY give it a try, it sounds amazing! I am with your daughter, used to it too going to the sauna here… ;) xx
You would love it! :D xx
oh my gosh, Emma you are so brave!!! It sounds lovely though. x
Thank you! It was lovely in the end! :D x
I would absolutely terrified of doing something wrong!
And of exposing all my wobbly bits!
I was worried about both, but luckily all was OK! :D
I read this with much trepidation. I’ve not heard of an Onsen before, very sheltered life, me! ‘mot are separated into male and female spas…’ You mean some are not?? Eeeekk!!
It did sound amazing though…can’t wait to hear more Japanee tales :-)
xx Jazzy
Most most definitely are, I think there might be one or two onsen that aren’t, but I don’t think they are that common! Thank you! (: xx
well done, brave girl. and funny, too. i was in japan once (kyoto and tokyo) but i did not experience onsen. maybe someday if i go back….
And now you know what to do! Thank you Mignon! Hope all is well! x
That was hilarious – were all 4 of you in there at the same time? xx
I was with R. Steve had S. When I told her you had to be naked, she said “well I don’t care about things like that” I forget how she is used to the Scandinavian and German lifestyle so much more than I am! :D
Wonderful post! I just love the way you write. It sounds like a great experience – you must have felt very relaxed afterwards. I don’t think I would mind the nakedness (she types nervously), especially if it’s just a bunch of women together. Definitely not mixed though – do they have mixed Onsens too? X.
Thank you, you are kind! I think there are a couple of mixed Onsen but you don’t see them very often! It was relaxing – Afterwards!! :D xx
Well done on surviving your trial by nakedness! Sounds like it was worth it. Can’t wait to hear more about your trip.
Thanks Mary! Glad I tried it at least! xx
It sounds like a wonderful thing to do but I just don’t know whether I would find that experience relaxing. I am far too afraid of baring all in public, I don’t think I would even get as far as the entrance! They have spas that sound similar to this in Taiwan which have a series of pools which increase in temperature and I could never do the last two as they were basically boiling water as far as I was concerned but you could still wear a swimming costume!
Thanks Kirsty! It’s such a strange concept to us isn’t it! Love the sound of the Taiwanese Spas…I LOVE super hot water and the fact that you can wear costumes sounds perfect to me! :D
You are so very immensely brave. Thanks for sharing an experience I’ll never dare to have. By the way, the Yukatas look lovely :)
Thank you… The children looked so cute in their yukatas, might try to get a couple before we leave! (:
OOH well i never … so many rules but it sounds great and your sooo brave, i dont think i would be brave enough to de robe what with so many mummy wobbly bits they might of though Godzilla had entered those sacred waters
Thanks Helen! The good thing about these places is also that you often leave thinking “my body’s not so bad after all”!! :D
I’ll be honest I have no fear of getting naked in front of others I’m afraid! I think it comes from going to an all girls school and always having to change pretty much as a group. So this sounds right up my street. I went to a thermal spring while we were in New Zealand and it was amazing! I LOVE this kind of stuff.
You would love it then! And I think you would love the food too! :) x
love the way you’ve described it, sounds amazing! Think though I’d spend too much time worrying about getting in and out to benefit from any relaxing/health-giving properties! Good tip about tying the Yukata…and sweetest picture of the kids xx
Thank you… That’s definitely what I was worried about when I was in there too, but it wasn’t half as bad as I expected! :D xx
LOVE the bit about tying your yukata the right way round – that could be very odd indeed! What a fabulous experience. I really hope to see Japan one day if I ever do, I shall come back to this post for Onsen tips ;)
You would love Japan, and the girls would adore it, all that Hello Kitty and the Japanese adore children, our two have been thoroughly spoiled! :D Yes, I was told that after I had my yukata tied the wrong way!! Thanks Mari! xx
Oo, you are brave! I’m not a fan of the old textile-free bathing. Surely you’ve had a bit of practice with this in Germany? Thought the Germans loved a bit of stripping off and jumping the sauna and water together?
Hahaha… Yes, they do indeed. However, I am most definitely not German! :D
I was inside your hotel or you walked the street in your dressing gown? The walking around in a dressing gown would bother me more than being naked in a health spa. My own nakedness is fine, although I’d rather other people didn’t do it!!
You get your Yukatas along with your keys to your hotel room (as at most of the Spa hotels here!), you wear them everywhere which is very odd at first for us (along with some rather attractive flip flops!)! Doesn’t take long to get used to it! Did dip my sleeve in the soy sauce one night though! :D
So pleased your having such a wonderful time. Loving reading your blog xxxx
It’s been amazing so far Em, not that relaxing really but we have seen some fabulous stuff! And thanks for reading lovely, I love it that you do! xxxxxx