It feels strange to be writing about France whilst overlooking cloud covered Tyrolean Mountains, but whilst we endure a morning full of torrential rain (still pretty though!) I am going to make the most of catching up, so on to our nose around Nérac very recently, a relatively small town on the Southern edge of the Lot et Garonne…
We opted out of a tour of the last remaining wing of the Chateau that belonged to France’s beloved King Henry IV (most of it was destroyed in the revolution) opting instead for a drift down the river Baïse on a little boat hired from Le Croisieres du Prince Henry (they also have a much larger boat you can take a tour on if you don’t fancy sailing your own!).
Despite the 11-year-old being furious about having to wear a life jacket whilst his older sister didn’t (French Law and all that), we spent a pleasant hour or so floating about on the vividly green waters, passing the Bath House where Henry’s Ladies would change (and he would peep on them by all accounts, he was a bit of a one for the ladies!) and many other statues and memorials along the river bank.
I would like to say it was an entirely peaceful journey, but despite being allowed to “drive” the boat for a good chunk of the journey, the Toddler’s enthusiasm for messing about on the river depleted quite rapidly. I would love to return sans enfants perhaps, with a picnic for a slightly longer definitely more relaxing exploration upstream – the Baïse is 188 km long and starts life in the Pyrenees so there’s plenty to explore (as long as there was someone else in charge of the complicated looking locks!)…
Afterwards we took a leisurely stroll along the river bank through the Park Royal de la Garenne (look out for the covered Roman mosaic at the start, Nérac has a lengthy history!) stopping for lunch at the brightly painted Chalet De La Garenne.
This building is over 100 years old, and must have been quite the social focal point in its day. Today it’s open in the summer months only, and is good for a simple tartine with pizza-esque toppings for lunch… It also does a decent Leffe! Nérac is famous for being the home of Fois Gras by the way, so you will find it quite a lot on the menus here if you like that kind of thing (or avoid it if it’s not!).
Crossing the bridge and walking back towards town past colourful back gardens (and the bath house, definitely worth a closer look!), we spent the remainder of our time in Nérac admiring the colombage – the half-timbered houses and tanneries, and the cobbled streets (look out for the town wash-house near the main car park!).
Saturday is market day if you happen to be visiting over a weekend (and it’s also famous for its huge flower market on the second weekend in May), but we enjoyed exploring on a quiet day where it was easy to pretend we had it all to ourselves…
France does this kind of place so very well…
Tanja/The Red Phone Box travels says
such a pretty French small town:)
Emma says
It really is! Thank you! :)
Nell (Pigeon Pair and Me) says
You’re right – this is such a typical French town! Of the prettiest kind. Shame toddlers and river trips don’t mix, but it’s good to know a refreshing Leffe was waiting for you…. #CulturedKids
Emma says
That was a really good part of the day! :D Thanks Nell! x
Vyki from Museum Mum says
What a beautiful town, the half timbered crooked buildings are so charming, and I love the idea of exploring by boat. I must admit, I often find myself planning to revisit places without kids! #culturedkids
Emma says
Oh me too Vyki, me too! :D Thanks for commenting! :)
Nancy | Map and Family says
So beautiful! I’d love to go just to look at the half-timbered houses,
Emma says
Really special. Thanks Nancy! :)
Lorelle says
Gorgeous shots Emma. I would love to take that boat ride down the river…so scenic. Xx
Emma says
It’s such a beautiful stretch of river. When the Toddler is older I would love to explore the entire length of it! :)
Catherine’s Cultural Wednesdays says
This looks amazing, I love messing about in boats. #CulturedKids
Emma says
Thanks Catherine! :)
Scarlett Roitman says
Naughty Henri! What a fun trip floating along the River Baise, although I can see that a toddler and a boat don’t always make the best pairing!
Emma says
Not this time! :D Thanks Scarlett! :)
Trish says
This reminds me of our trip to the Dordogne some years ago. Such a pretty area of France and lovely to be on the river, admiring the scenery from a boat. You’re right – France does do this kind of place well.
#culturedkids
Emma says
It really is beautiful. Thanks Trish. Will be catching up with everything super soon! xx
Olivia Jade says
Great post and beautiful pictures, the history of this place is really fascinating! I never knew Henry the IV owned anywhere in France. I’d love to visit too.
Emma says
Thanks Olivia! :) x
Rebecca Smith says
What an absolutely gorgeous place to visit! I’d love to drift down that river on a lazy weekend afternoon
Emma says
It is so pretty! Thanks Rebecca! (:
Becky Jarratt says
Nerac looks like a beautiful place to explore. I did giggle at your 11 year old being cross that his sister didn’t have to wear a life jacket, though!
Emma says
The world is so unfair sometimes! :D Thanks Becky!
Rhian westbury says
This looks like such a pretty place and I do love a good river cruise so that sounds nice x
Emma says
It is a really pretty place to explore! Thanks Rhian! :) x
MELANIE EDJOURIAN says
It looks so beautiful there. I love the pretty narrow cobbled paths in the town and the style of the buildings.
Emma says
So like something out of a fairytale at times! Thanks Melanie!
Amanda Millie says
wow! its so beautiful and picturesque, i’d love to visit sometime.
Emma says
It’s worth it! Thanks Amanda! (:
Joanne says
I love the photos makes me want to visit
Emma says
It’s great for a spot of photography! Thanks Joanne!
Mostlyfoodandtravel says
This looks and sounds like a beautiful town. I love the little streets and the old architecture. Were there nice places to eat too
Emma says
For such a tiny place it was rammed with places to eat! Thanks for commenting! :)
lauren porter says
What a lovely place to visit! I love boat trips & France, generally, is just such a lovely place for a family holiday :)
Emma says
It really is! Thanks Lauren! (: