An Afternoon with Krampus

Picture the scene, you are at Munich’s largest Christmas Market at Marienplatz.   It’s around 3pm, the winter’s night is drawing in, and the lights of the Christmas stalls are beginning to glow.  People are either perusing festive goods, or huddled together with groups of friends, chatting over steaming cups of gluhwein and egg-nog…

In the background, a faint clanking of chains and the tinny sound of hundreds of cow bells begin to make themselves heard, growing louder and louder as the crowds increase.   Suddenly, above the throng of people, a tall and slightly sinister pair of horns can be seen, followed by another pair, then another.    The jumbled sound of the chains and clashing bells are suddenly joined by a mass of shrieks and plenty of raucous laughter, and all topped with the very unmistakable whiff of goat.   Giving an insight into ancient alpine traditions, this is the annual Krampus Lauf…

Having had a good rest after his busy night dishing out presents for good children with Saint Nicholas on the 6th December, Krampus is back (for two consecutive weekends in the middle of December).  Except he’s not on his own, this time he’s with 450 of his brethren in all shapes, sizes and hideous guises (and of the local, and “foreign” variety – groups come from as far afield as Austria and Italy to make merry!)!   Feeling refreshed and rejuvenated, it’s immediately obvious that they are ready for a spot of mischief-making,  a little gentle intimidation, and at times an overly generous helping of scariness…

If, like me, you have grown up with the idea that the worst the festive season might bring is a lack of presents for poor behaviour, then spare a thought for the children in these parts who might not get any presents, AND might have to endure being whacked with birch branches by Krampus in a best case scenario, or at the very worst, carried off to the mountains in a basket on his back, never to be seen again… If you find the whole notion laughable, you have obviously never caught a glimpse (by the way, if you happen to be in these parts with small children who are easily scared, or those generally of a nervous disposition, you might want to think twice before attending a Krampus Lauf!)…

During our afternoon with Krampus, the crowds meant that the four of us ended up separated for the entire spectacle. I could spot the Small Boy on the shoulders of his Dad much further down the street, and we girls managed to get a prime spot at the front. Although this made for great photo opportunities (my favourites were definitely the gruesome honey monster, and the mutant alpacas!) it also meant that we were prime targets! Thankfully the worst I had to endure was getting my hair most definitely messed up by the gruesome beast in the last of the three pics below…

Small girl took a most definite dislike to him (and the one that enveloped her in a bear hug), and although she was still giggling throughout the Lauf, it made for a lot of very wobbly one-handed picture-taking thereafter, as she definitely wasn’t letting go of my arm! Others around us suffered general tormenting, coal daubed across faces, and the odd whack with a branch.  Others posed for photographs and gave out small gifts to children in the crowd.

The little boy you can just see in the picture above, insisted on meeting every Krampus he could!  

I am not sure what there is to say about the fact that when we met up again, both of my offspring were bearing birch branch gifts from their new-found Krampus friends!

Krampus Lauf’s happen all over Bavaria and Austria (and a couple of other countries too!) at this time of year.   If you happen to be in Munich at the right time, a good place to stand is on the corner of the Marienplatz on the road heading up to the Rindermarkt.    Plant your feet firmly, and don’t budge until Krampus and his brothers have passed by.   And most definitely don’t go straight from the hair dressers.

Don’t have nightmares, do sleep well!

PS.  A friend of mine found this online, it gives you a good insight into how Krampus is made!