It’s easy to spot fields full of the strange flat vines that produce the grapes for Santorini’s wines, they are everywhere. Forget any eye-scrunching, mouth drying experiences you might have had with Greek wine in the past, as along with cherry tomatoes, fava beans, white aubergines and pistachios, wine is what the island is growing increasingly famous for in the culinary world.
The vines themselves are quite beautiful when you look at them closely. Trained into a basket shape, the grapes grow on the inside to protect them from the harsh island winds. This also helps the vines retain moisture from the sea mists that sweep in from time to time (more on them later!)…
We just happened to drive past Argyros Wine Estate, having sampled a bottle of their finest a couple of nights previously, so we thought we would just pop in to buy a bottle or two – which you are positively encouraged to do by the way.
So whilst the Small People chatted happily with the resident canaries outside in the courtyard (with the cat-whisperer trying his hand at a spot of bird-whispering), and inspected an ancient vine or three at close quarters, we were able to sample a small selection of outstanding wines. Or at least I was – Mr R had forgotten to put me on the licence of the TFC (Trusty Frog Car) when we hired it, which meant that whilst he got to drive everywhere, on this occasion I had the honour of approving any purchases by sampling them beforehand – which I think was a pretty good deal! The chocolate they sell here received vigorous nods of approval too (the small people were presented with a tiny square each!) – finest quality dark stuff filled with Vin Santo soaked raisins and produced not too far from here in Austria no less.
Our morning of wine appreciation was followed by a little further cultural admiration at the insistence of the Small Girl – an hour well spent at the Museum of Prehistoric Fira – it’s not big, you don’t really need that long – but you will see some of the most beautiful wall paintings taken from sites such as Akrotiri and Ancient Thira, and perhaps most precious of all – a tiny golden Ibis found at Akrotiri – which precedes even that by thousands of years.
Χάνι (pronounced Chani) beckoned for lunch that day. We had driven past countless times, and it always looked packed full of locals (which in my book is always a good sign)! Obviously there are great Caldera view restaurants to be found all over Santorini, but if you want something really authentic (and usually at a fraction of the price) head to the quieter less touristy streets and you can eat really well. Χάνι is one of these places! The name simply means “traditional inn”, and the welcome we received from owner Evangelos certainly suited it. Here we dined on the freshest Greek Salad, Saganaki and Souvlaki, and all four of us were able to eat like royalty for less than €25. And if this wasn’t enough, Evangelos sent us on our way with a paper bag overflowing with the sweetest juiciest nectarines from his back garden… We took them to the beach and didn’t even care about the sand that stuck to the juices that ran down our chins.
Much later (and still really full from lunch) we retired to the villa for a simple supper of tarama and pita, and yet another sunset. Oh, and a bottle of that excellent wine from the Vineyard we had visited earlier that day of course… Bliss!
I shouldn’t have read his while feeling peckish. Now I’m absolutely starving! Whenever I visit my aunt in Capri, I always pick up nectarines and a bottle of fanta on my way to the beach. Both equal summer holidays for me. Love them. And now I’m off to the fridge …
That sounds perfect Rachel! Thank you x
Great photos! That wrap looks amazing, Greek food is always a good choice. :) Santorini was great, but I feel like I barely dipped a toe into that island… making more notes for my return visit!
Thanks Heather. There’s so much to see there, we needed a bit longer than a week really. That’s my excuse anyway! :D
Love Greek chips, sorry appreciate good wine and some culture but difficult for me to see beyond bread and chips – even with meat.
This was such a great place… The food was amazing and honestly as good as it looks! :D
Oh wow, I’m salivating at the food and rather liking that pot and the little sculpture…goat?
Golden Ibis! :D I loved the pot too, so beautiful! :)
It does all sound like bliss… And I love the pic of the basket shape vine, how ingenious! xx
Thank you. Gorgeous aren’t they? :) xx
I remember Santorini well, and you’ve captured it perfectly in these shots and words. I found Akrotiri really fascinating and definitely worth a visit as you say. The museum is a great companion to the dig. The wine–wonderful! We tried Vinsanto from (can’t remember the family) and enjoyed it, perhaps too much ;)
Too easy to drink isn’t it Michelle? :D Thank you xx
Total bliss, indeed! You can’t go wrong with chocolates, wine and Santorini. You guys looked like you had a perfect day. Beautiful photos! I haven’t been to Santorini yet but I’d love to be in that last picture too standing by that blue gate. Thanks for the virtual inspiration for now.
Thanks so much Mary! :)
So enjoyed reading this…. I always feel miles from home reading your posts! Glad to know there is a decent Greek wine out there….. the ones I’ve tasted so far have been very warm and sour! X
There really is… Honestly up there with some of the best wines I have had in France, Italy and in South Africa! :) Thank you xx
What a fun day! You are so right about checking the locals in restaurants, that’s what I do too!
PS: that souvlaki shot, omg :)
Thanks so much Alexia. I hope you saw the mention in my previous Santorini post? :) x
I am seriously struggling with the idea of a good bottle of Greek wine (I was actually grateful to be pregnant and not drinking on our last holiday, haha!), but that photo of the pitta and those little bits of shredded meat (oh alright and the chips) have definitely got my mouth watering. Which is probably criminal at this time in the morning, but there we are.
I could actually eat one of those right now too, even at this time in the morning! And honestly, do keep an eye out for that Estate’s wines in particular, they are amazing! :)
Sounds like my kinda evening ;) x
I thought you would approve! :D x
The painted walls are always a surprise in that they are so vibrant. I’m used to seeing old ruins around the Mediterranean with the colours faded and sort of washed out. You forget that they were actually brightly painted walls and not almost stone coloured.
These were so well protected as they were preserved in the ash. Yes, I know what you mean about thinking the faded colours is how they really were! :D
It looks and sounds utterly wonderful, Emma
Thanks so much Sally x